Ahahaha I thought you would say something like that. My thoughts where the flow would be to much for the factory heads. I currently have LS1 intake, maybe I should goto LS6 with ported TB.

i had good results when i switched to an LS6 intake and ported TB

I need to squeeze every pony out of a stock long block with out going into it so I figured I would ask.

What would be a good basic start to suspension parts to help drop my 60' and help eliminate wheel hop? I should have a little extra money this winter to spend. Also in the future when my rear end breaks what new suspension pieces will i have to buy to match/adjust to the new 9in rear end. I don't want to have to buy the same thing twice. Thanks

Adjustable Lower Control Arms
Adj. Panhard bar
Adj. Tq arm

Pick a brand it doesnt matter really. I had all UMI under my car before I gave it to my dad and got Racecraft stuff.

Double adjustable lower control arms and pan hard bar to start. Those can be transferred. I like BMR products

Get a set of 16" Camaro wheels and use a set of decent tires in the rear at the track. That will stop the wheel hop.

Thanks for the help guys.

Torn between lowering springs, originally wanted BMRs but I'm torn between those and Eibach's. I know the rears tend to sag but will going lower restrict my 60'?

I got the eibach pro kit for my car 2 years ago and they seem to be holding good for me.

Eibachs are known to sag within time. BMR have seem to stay stable so far.

Do the Strange shocks help that much? I found a deal on Konis, a panhard bar, and springs. Along with tying up the LS1 brake upgrade I'm thinking about getting this package from BMR:

http://bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=339

I'm going to hold out on SFC's for a bit as well but I'm hoping to replace other crucial components of my 20 year old suspension while I'm there.

TLDR: is that package from BMR worth it?

Shocks depend on what you do with the car. You don't want drag shocks if you track the car 2% of it's life.

First thing I try to get people to do is subframe connectors. Tightens the whole car up. Then LCA and panhard bar. I recommend double adjustable for both so the wheels can be adjusted if needed.

aftermarket thermostats. I have heard both sides what do you think don?

I use 160 t-stats all the time. Work good at keeping the car 180-190. stock is 200 -210

What are your opinions on a destroyed build? I.e 6.0 block with 4.8 crank

Why?

I think it would be cool/different

Well, that would be for a high spinning setup. I've seen them done to get a 8k rpm limit on motors. Just torque suffers a lot.

trap door fuel pump yay or nay? I dropped the tank to do a replacement stock pump in like 2011 and it was a pain. I need to upgrage my pump and thinking trap door this time.

Trap door is a great way to go. Makes it a lot easier, expecially if you have problems in the future. Just make sure you seal the hole back up so fumes don't kill the inside of the car.

Yeah, I was looking up on an LT1 car the fittings are a bit out of the way as opposed to the ls cars being right there. Still accessible right? I don't want to cut through the channels it would make it tougher to seal.

how much does lowering your car from the stock spring effect it at the track. I put bmr springs now and it doesnt seem to hook quite as good.

They are stiffer, so the transfer is slower. Causes spin. Just need more tire now.

Lca angle has an effect as well?

heater hose mod, lca relocation brackets, and viking adjustable shocks got me a 1.69 60' on 255 50 16 et streets and still could use more work with the launch. Looks low but rides and launches good