What about the Bolt-ins and then welding them? FYI the SFC that you installed in Michelles Z have been perfect. I think those were TTP prototype? from sometime ago.

Bolt in while welding is just fine. The downfall is usually the weight. So,if ordering I would just go weld in from the start.

Some people will get bolt in then bring it to a place to weld. That place has to pull them off to clean the paint off. So,no money saved.

Torque arms? How useful are the relocation kits? Benefit of adjustable vs non adjustable?

Torque arms do 2 things. They make it so you can adjust pinion angle and instant center.A non-adjustable bar just adds a little strength compared to the stock bar.

Relo kits are made to adjust instant center points. They are commonly used when you lower the car to get the control arms back to the stock angle.

Instant center point reference can give you an idea on how a car will hook.
This is measured by a straight edge on the torque arm towards the front of the car and also the LCA's. Where they intersect with each other is the center point. Of course you pretty much have to eye ball that out.

Lowering the control arms on the rear will bring the center towards the car. This can make the car hook better on ignitial hit. Too much is very common. That's when the car hooks good, can do a quick pull of the front tires,then spins a bit or bogs hard. It pretty much bounces the rear tires. Too much can also give a lot of wheel hop.

With the instant center too far out the car will just spin a lot and not even try to hook. You really want it to load the rear wheels but not too much.

An A4 car has a lot more room to set this up. A M6 has to be played with till it's spot on. When right the car will spin very slightly for 10-20' out while producing the best 60'. At no time the front will pop up for a split second.

There is a lot more that goes with this on front suspension lift times ect but I think we hit the LCA, torque arm part. LOL

Thanks im just trying to learn about suspension as i go. So for a bolt on/cam car what would be ideal?

Auto or M6?

Auto

If it dead hooks, there is nothing to do.

If your upgrading I would add double adjustable LCA's first.

Before I ask I would like to clarify that I am trying to adhering to my class rules for Autocross.

Don would installing my Fast 90 intake/TB on my stock motor with my headers be worth the hassle for that little gain. Would the 285cfm hurt me because the motor is stock? Could you guestamate the gain or loss? Or should I just get my stock TB ported.

I've seen 0 gain and even a loss of a few hp with a FAST on a stock motor.