Yank it and get off quicker.
 

They do not tell a lie. Last week I finally got some mods done to the car (had a long busy summer and finally had some free time):

Yank SS3600 converter
Trans Go HD2 shift kit
Klab Fabrications Trans cooler
LS1 driveshaft
Poly motor, trans, and torque arm mounts
new knock sensor

First I give a big thanks to my buddy Roy for letting me use his lift at and time to work on my car at "Eastern Octane" , I've never been so blessed to work on one of my toys on a lift. 2nd thanks to Joe for convincing me to install the shift kit, and helping/guiding me on the install at his shop (a 4L60E fits in the trunk of a Saturn fyi).

andddd shes up:
http://i.imgur.com/bpoOzipl.jpg

Leaking LT1 intake manifolds will do that:
http://i.imgur.com/vLaCYW9l.jpg

Ok the directions for this kind of suck, If anyone needs help installing one of these PM me. I wish I took more step by step pics to make a guide but I just went to town:
http://i.imgur.com/Q8B6Dgjl.jpg

Pulling the valve body apart:
http://i.imgur.com/Lk91DJMl.jpg

Spacers and springs for the 2nd accumulator. I used the middle settings for everything:
http://i.imgur.com/YDMPHv8l.jpg

Drilled the separator plate to the max sizes:
http://i.imgur.com/Q3Shtrcl.jpg

All my valves and pistons were actually not worn too bad for the 40k hard-ish miles I put on it. The thing was pretty dirty I don't think the fluid has ever been changed or serviced. Brake cleaner made it good as new:
http://i.imgur.com/FgAj5lkl.jpg

Assembled fresh new filter:
http://i.imgur.com/9VFFrfol.jpg

I wish I took a pic of the pan before...
http://i.imgur.com/KzMORysl.jpg

That was it for the shift kit. filled the converter up with Mercon V and slipped it on:
http://i.imgur.com/cnO5TXsl.png

Then I did the motor mounts which was actually the biggest pita. Took some time and patience grinding the rivets apart but what a difference these made. No more y pipe slapping the shit out of my floor boards spiking knock retard. On the passenger side the knock sensor should be removed but I smashed mine so had to buy a new one. It was pretty ancient anyways. Then the trans went back in with the new poly mount, the LS1 driveshaft and buttoned everything back up. Time for a tranny cooler:

http://i.imgur.com/vZyIxvtl.jpg

I have quite the collection of junk in my shed. When I came across this plate and fin style Ford cooler (prob out of a diesel) I took the wizzer to the tabs and grinder and boom free cooler. I got some pretty handy zip ties for coolers from the Pep-Boys speed shop up the street and installed it right in front of my AC condenser.
http://i.imgur.com/ltay8Ial.jpg

I only needed ~2ft of rubber line I had laying in my shed, cut and re-route the stock lines to go in to the radiator, out and into cooler, and out into the return line. So my cooler is cooling the fluid after it goes through the stock cooler in the rad. Some will say this is silly but I don't care. The coolant heats it up to the specified operating range effectively. I logged it at the track friday and temps never rose above 80*C (~175*F). If I'm ever bored I might bypass the factory cooler and log the temps to prove it probably doesn't make a significant difference.

Then I filled it up with Mercon V. It was my first time filling a tranny from being bone dry so I kind of fucked up and overfilled it. It was smoke screening trans fluid out the vent tube on wot pulls on 213 so bad the whole back of my car was coated LOL. With the fluid level corrected and everything double checked we bolted the DR's on and hit the track friday and ran 12.9 first pass. Look in the racing/pics section soon for some awesome vids and pics.
http://i.imgur.com/BL48Edpl.jpg

In the end I think a converter is one of the first thing you should do with an auto car. It is a lot more fun to drive on the street and I'm about to start DD'ing it to school again. It hits HARD at the track and like I said just feels great. The shift kit is recommended to put less wear on slipping clutches after the converter. Its good to grab into gears instead of let them slip so much and there is lots of room for line pressure adjustments in the tune. If anyone has any questions doing similar mods PM me I wish I could have made a walk through but I just didn't stop for pics. Thanks for reading.
:klab:

Nice. Glad to see your at it again.

Yank is a great converter. We have a few sitting here.

your cooler routing is correct. Always the best to run through the radiator, then to the cooler.

Just watch that rubber line. I've seen some not rated for tranny's expand and split.

Thanks! I'll double check that. If its not rated I could just pick up some specified for trans use? Whats the approximate pressure in the cooler lines?

What do you guys think of 3.73s? My pinion seal is leaking and I was going to replace it, pull the axles and press in ARP wheel studs. I have read that some people see better results with this converter and 3.73's but how big of a difference would it be on the highway? I still DD the car so wouldn't want it revving too high on the highway. Just something small I was thinking of doing over the next few weeks.

Props dude. This shit is way over my head. I gotta start to learn how to make my car faaaast

I'd do 3.73 in your car

3.73's are good.

The line has to take 200+ heat and pressure. I just use -6 AN line.

Can you get the tranny fluid to cold?