finally looking into the motor noise
 

started preping for the motor removal on the 95 today got the harness all unplugged the accessories off and the cooling system out, along with the trans. only thing left is the exhaust and motor mounts. waiting for a cherry pick hopefully have one by mid week.

woo! go ben!

Have fun Ben!

yea im thrilled all i got left is the exhaust and motor mounts then pull her out and tear her down. drained the oil no big metal shavings noticed.

Might as well get some long tubes while your in there.

i agree totally. any suggestions on maker

my pacesetters fit really well. and you should pull the intake or you are gunna have a bitch of a time getting it over the rad support.

yea i kinda figured that ill do that tomorrow before i pull it. ill have to look into the pacesetters. long tubes right

yeah long tube. everything else you might as well keep the manifolds.

ok ill keep that in mind

what do u recommend for a street clutch and a short throw

i have a cheap ass fidanza short throw i got from ebay. lasted me 4 years and all i did was take it apart grease it up RELLY good and cut the stick a little shorter. do i recomend it on a Budget? yeah But if you can afford a Good Shifter get one. i Love the stock hurst base though.

and i havent been in the market in a long time for a clutch but Spec last i checked was the best LT1 clutch.

nice! ill be around later on. give me a call if your workin on it

For shifters - The MGW Short Throw seems to be the cream of the crop recently, and it definitely appears to be badass. I've got the SLP Hurst Shifter and Lou's Short Stick which also rocks. But if I was doing it now I think the MGW is cheaper overall and looks to be better quality.

For Clutch - I love my Spec Stage 2+ But if you need more holding power go 3+. Essentially the + is the non puck version of each stage, meaning it's a little less on/off but still holds the rated power level.

Thanks ill have to look into those 2

i like pizza went with the fidanza. I had no issues with it and loved it. Cant hurt that it was also cheap. I got a Spec stg 2+ for my LT1 but never got around to installing it. To bad i sold it already.

Yea I would have baught it but too late

Got the motor out tonight ill just have to tear it down now. Wish me luck

if you need anything lemme know. i think we still have a short block stuffed away in 94 Mikes Shed?

well i got the motor apart tonight number 8 cylinder spun a bearing that explains the oil pressure lose and knock comin from the motor. lookin at the crank and rod the surfaces dont have any noticable scores or scratches have to mic them tomorrow may be able to throw bearings and an oil pump on it it close the bottom end.

you should get the rods checked/ re sized everytime you pull a cap. and have the crank turned .010. it really wont cost much and you wont run the risk of.... it LOOK ok and its not. mic-ing it only tells you half the story. dont forget all the metal that is now up inside the oil passages of the crank and block.

im gunna get the block washed and hot tanked

why not just throw a good used motor in it?

they want alot of cash it only has 88k. idk im thinkin rebuild the mottorm end a 306 cam pushrods and 1.6 rollers along with lt and ory.

If u do a 306 do a hydrarev kit and a tune cause that cam needs rpm. A cc305 is perfect for a mild setup though

I would deff do a tune never heard of a hydrarev kit. What's that all about?

Yeah your gunna need almost 7000 rpm to get that cam to peak. If its out id change it. It also tunes like shit with out bigg cubes to calm it down on the street.

id go for a 503 cam if i were you. Love the idle on it

Is that what u had? Did u have to do any head work ie springs?

i had a 304 with just 1.5 RRs. My cam was made for a stock tune. The 503 cam works well with ported heads, intake, springs and 1.6 rrs. Search through LTxtech. Youll find some info on what they run with it.

Ok thanks

any cam you get aside from a CC304 cam will need new springs. and it will need the RIGHT springs.

Any cam you should get springs for it I wouldn't trust the stockers with anything bigger. Also i am partial but i still say cc305

I got the short block from sucidleracing took it apart monday and cleaned the pistons today and found the exact same thing wrong as my motor the space between the 2 comprression rings on piston number 1 is broken I mean I can take a 3 inch long piece of piston skirt out anyone see this before? Both motors same problem both ran when pulled. Idk

well atleast the rest of it looked better then your motor lol

True that

then swap out from your motor piston number 2 rod and piston. get a ball hone an hone the cylinders get a new set of rings Dont use the old ones at this point. and by rights if you take the rods apart/take the caps off your supposed to get them checked for size. you should be alright its not a 10k rpm screamer but just keep that in mind. i usually check them myself by getting soft jaws for a vice. clamp the rod in the vise snug enough you cant budge it but dont CRANK down. re torque the cap back on to spec. and then check the inside diameter for out of round. usually they will squeeze in near the bolt areas. if they are too tight you will need to get them re sized. honestly you should have left it together and just bolted it in.

also look it up but depending on year the rod bolts were not reusable.

Yea I am gunna replace all the rod bearing so I'm gettin them measured for proper bearings and I figured I could get 8 good pistons and rods out of the 16 I have

yeah thats what id do. just weigh them to make sure they are close in weight for balance.