Best deal on 383 stroker kit for lt1?
 

Thinking of freshening up the motor from the Camaro before it goes in the third gen. Before I spend hours surfing the web anyone know who has the best deal going out there for a fully forged 383 stroker kit for an lt1?

Figure if I'm going to spend 6-700 on forged rods/pistons I may as well add another $500 or so for a crank too and go all out.

The stock crank is pretty strong

From reading on ls1tech, most of the forged stuff is alright, even the forged Eagle stuff so long as its gone over before you put it in.

I know the stock crank is most likely enough for what I'm looking for but if I'm going to end up buying rods/pistons and having to get it rebalanced I figure why not spring an extra $500 or so and build a 383.

I was looking at the eagle kits, Ohio crank, and a bunch of others. Just figured I'd ask if anyone knew who had the best overall deal rather than me surf the web for hours comparing.

Definitely want to stay all forged though. If I actually do go through freshening it up I'm probably going to change the cam and spring for a good set of heads too. Shooting for 425-450 rwhp and then whack it with 2 stages of nitrous on top of that when the mood strikes. I don't see having the 68 ready for spring timewise or budget wise cause her wrx needs some stuff too but a fresh 383 I think I can fit in the budget. Especially if I can sell the camaros shell once the driveline is out.
Dying for a bad ass toy again that I actually enjoy driving. Never really fell in love with the z and after blasting around in it last night for a bit I realize just how much I miss having a fun ride :(

They say stock cranks good to 400whpish?

stock rods are good for that. crank has no known failure hp. ive never seen or heard of one breaking. not the point he ask about a 383.... stock crank wont do it. haha

i have the eagle 396 kit wish is the SAME as the 383 kit with 6" rods. so the r/s angle isnt shit compared to the 383 and 5.7" rods. thats my recommendation. and i got it from ohio crank. came prebalanced with the sheet. pistons were all gram matched. only issue is you can NOT use the stock flywheel unless you have it re balanced for Zero. or have a billet flywheel with a bolted on weight removed(what i did but mines aluminum). i paid 1800 shipped for everything and bolted it in.

Yeah I know the stock crank is fine for all motor power I'm shooting for. It was the extra 2-250 shot of nitrous that had me forged crank shopping. I have a big kit sitting here new in the package that I can't seem to sell so may as well use it lol.

That's part of the issue I was running into pizza was lt1 balancing. I was looking more at the $1200 kits eagle listed that were all forged. If its an extra $500 or so I'll to go 383 I'll do it. If its an extra grand plus needing a $300+ dollar flywheel I'll just build a 355, shoot for 400+ rwhp and spray from there. If the crank and flywheel are going to add that much more ill pass cause that will almost cover a Lloyd Elliot head/cam package ;)

Looking for best bang for the buck and an extra 20-30 horse from a 383/396 isn't worth an extra $1,000+ to me

i bet you wont even net that kind of gain. 396 and 383 are heavier. and forged components on top of that are more so. all the cubes do is move the torque curve and by doing so move the hp curve down to a usable rpm limit. a decent cam on an LT will want to see 7k before its done making power. 383 will see around 6500 and 396 about 6k on the same cam(CC306). when i was looking. and thats not even a big cam no a days. i say 396 as its not any more then a 383 kit. and buy billet caps and have the block line honed and decked TO the rotating assembly. then you should be good. and if your doing any aftermarket clutch with an aggressive type disk it will chew up the stock flywheel pretty quick. so a new flywheel is needed Anyway.

Part of my other concern with that is I was thinking about the twin disk clutches. Unless they have a removeable weight then that would screw me there.
I'm no opposed to a high winding 355 either. Shifting over 7,000 is fun :)
And before you say it, planning on a 24x conversion too so factory ecu is not a limiting factor for rpm.

I was planning on studding the mains, from what I was reading it sounded like that was enough? I think I'd just try and find a factory 4 bolt block before I deal with aftermarket caps and line boring. That right there is like another $700 or so. Worst case I stick to one stage of juice and only whack it 150 horse or so instead of 250 lol.

i spent 1800 in block work alone. splayed 4 bolt caps, line bore, deck, bored, finish prep. After i clearanced the block for the stroker kit. wich was fun and scary to say the least. Took out a TON of material and still had to clearance the bolts for the pan rails and cylinder skirts.

Yeah I'm not afraid of the block clearancing. Built a couple 383's before. That's my other reason for 383 vs 396. I've read the extra clearancing gets kinda scary.
I'm almost thinking now an Ohio crank super street kit with forged pistons upgrade, be just over a grand. Comes with a nodular iron crank but doesn't say what the rods are.
Do that and maybe just run one stage oF spray with a 150 shot or less. Need to call them and see what it's rated for. I'm not against 2,500-3,000 into the motor but I'm not dropping 5-6,000. At that point I'll sell it all as is and ls swap the car lol.

rods are the most important part of any build for FI or Spray. cheap out on pistons and crank with the proper tuning can be OK but rods take All the force. h beam forged or dont bother. the extra r/s angle of the 383 will snap a PM rod under N/A power. and make sure its a 6" rod. 5.7" rod on a 3.75 stroke has an r.s of 1.52. Very bad for piston wear longevity and 6500 rpm will be about the limit. 6" rods are hard to find as a "KIT" for a 383 wich is why they sucked when i was looking. 6" rod on a 3.875 (396ci.) r/s is 1.55 may not seem like alot But makes a Drastic difference in engine performance at low to mid rpm.

Yeah that was my issue with the Ohio crank kit is they don't say what type of rods it comes with. Trust me, forged or nothing there I know that. No my first rodeo.

My biggest issue comes with finding balanced kits that are lt1 specific for a price I feel like paying. I'm not looking to dump $5-6,000 into the motor. $2,500-3,000 is the most I really want to go. Otherwise like I said I'd just swap a 6.0 into I and be done with it. Only using the lt1 cause I have a complete donor car. Makes life easier to not have to hunt down all the odds and ends.
Basically whatever my 3,000 into the motor gets me is what it gets me. That's just the motor, nothing else. Already have nitrous kit/fuel system and the 24x conversion will be separate from that budget. Really wish I knew exactly how ported my current heads were and by who. Would make life much easier for me right now. I'm going off the assumption they were home ported and I'll need to replace them. Must have something done I assume though to put down 319 at the wheels with a hot cam.

319 threw a 6 speed is about right for stock heads and the hot cam. so if there ported they didnt gain anything. ive seen cam only auto put down close to that. So id say LE1's or better in the budget? and as far as a real LT1 balanced crank it will have to be balanced buy a local machine shop. almost no aftermarket kit is balanced like the LT1. wich is internal balance in front(no weight like a 400) and external in the rear. it will either be a custom balanced assembly or get the clutch you want and just have it zero balanced as an assembly like i did.

Ok. I thought hot cam only numbers were in the high 200's not low 300's. I honestly have no idea what's been done. Just going off what I was told when I bought it. May not really be much of anything done cause the motor went together 2 owners ago so we really don't know.
Yes though, I was planning on at least le1's if not le2's with matching cam package.

Or, the more I add things up maybe I'll just say f it and go forged rods/pistons, stock crank, keep my heads, drop the compression some, and do a budget turbo set up. I can buy an s400 series turbo and all the other odds and ends for less than what the heads/cam will cost. Or possibly a set of eBay twins. Seen a bunch of people having decent success with them lately. 12-14 psi on meth injection should get me over 600 at the flywheel.
Basically just looking for the best bang for the buck. Was thinking staying na but not dead set on it.

turbo forged bottom stock heads and intake and cam. best bang for the buck!!! and will drive Like stock untill MASHED!

Yep, f it. That's what I'm starting to think. Forged rods/pistons, drop the compression a bit, keep my heads, possibly a custom ground cam and boost it.
That should get me in the 600 horse range at the flywheel with good gas or alchohol injection, and probably end up costing half as much as a forged stroker and le2's. That should be just fine for my beater car :)

Ok, done some more research. Screw the stroker.
Forged rods/pistons, stock crank, keep my heads, maybe custom ground cam.
eBay gt45 single turbo and all the extras all together will probably cost about the same as a fully forged stroker kit that you mentioned mike.
10-14 psi on meth injection should easily make 500+ at the wheels. Done deal.
Now I have my winter plans unless I manage to find a lot more free time to get the 68 together first. I'm thinking this and the wrx all squared away are more reasonable springtime goals though.

Awesome! sounds like a good plan! one i wish i did myself instead of the big cube N/A Junk!

i was looking the other day for parts for a motor for my truck, flatlanderracing has an AWESOME deal going for balanced roatating assy's ready to go.........check it out

Sounds like it will be a fun car, lets see how long you stick with this plan lol

next up forged and a 300 shot lol