opti removal
 

So I've started pulling apart my car so I can pull the opti off. I've got the harmonic balancer off, coolant drained, hoses off the wp. Anything I should know before I go any further? I'm done for today, just gonna work on it as i get time to. Any suggestions would be great. Also anything else I should do while I'm in there?

Get an eletric water pump

I wouldn't get an electric water pump. Not for a street use car maybe a race.

I got my opti apart right now. Just loosen the wp bolts and pull the wp a little so the anti freeze that comes out of the block doesn't go all over the opti it will fall down on the side of the block and miss the opti.change all 3 seals while your there,go get a timing chain cover kit it will have everything you need its like $20 make sure you get felpro. As soon as my fkn back gets better I'm going to finish mine, I fked it up working on mine a week in half ago.

^^^^ That! haha

What 3 seals are you talking about? And why timing cover gaskets? I don't think mines leaking???? Just a precautionary measure? Maybe I should throw a bigger cam in there since I'm half way there lol

its cheaper to by the felpro time cover gasket kit than get what you need individually. you need the water pump to block seal,the water pump drive seal,opti seal,crank seal.

I finally got around to pulling the WP, and the opti, pulled to opti apart, and this is what I found.

All the contacts look like they have some white corrosion type of stuff, the worst one is the one farthest right in this picture.
[IMG]http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/u...193152_380.jpg[/IMG]

More pictures of the white corrosion on the other contacts.
http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/u...193215_823.jpg

Overall, its pretty clean, and dry inside, the seal broke as you can see.
http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/u...193236_708.jpg

Picture of the armature.
[IMG]http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/u...193253_289.jpg[/IMG]


I also pulled two of these out of my brand new Accel plug wires to the opti!!! WTF!!!! I thought accel was supposed to be good....
[IMG]http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/u...193648_948.jpg[/IMG]

Anyways, what should my next step be? should I be able to get by with just cleaning up the contacts and the armature? How would I go about doing that? or should I just throw a new one in???


Also, little side story for you guys, I brought the opti to advanced to get a reverse torx bit socket for the cover bolts. Right away some kid says "oh shit, lt1 huh?" so I talk to the kid, he says "oh yeah, they suck but I was pumpin 700 horse out of mine, thing was nasty, lt4 kit, 1.7 rockers so I had compression out the ass! I had a rear mount turbo kit, pushin 6lbs of boost, thing smoked lamborghinis, noone could touch me." I just laughed and said oh yea? thats pretty cool man, you got a dyno sheet? he said nah man. I said, yeah, I didnt think so lol, then I left.

hahaha i love the parts store idiots!! buy a NEW cap and rotor kit!! and also pull the rotor off and inspect behind the black guard/seperation disc. if there is ANY contamination behind there, ditch the opti for a new one unless you feel like pulling it off in 3k miles.

Its rediculous, everywhere you go somebody's got a friggin stupid fast race car, that they just happen to not have proof of it. I'd love to see you try and pump 700 horse out of an lt1 lol. Anyways, what about the plug wires, are those fixable? Or time for new ones?

Also, where could I find said cap and rotor kit?

I agree with pizza make sure u look inside. My cap and rotor was 10x worse than yours and mine had oil inside under the cover. The plug wires as long as there in good shape you should be able to get replacement ends to recrimp on I wouldn't try to reuse the ones that came off. I picked up my new cap and rotor from sumitt racing get a msd brand and when install it make sure you put blue loc tight on the screws of the rotor.

Thank you for your wisdom sir

Pulled the rest of the opti apart, and this is what I found:

Overall, its surprisingly pretty clean in there, no oil, just a little rust on the metal parts, but nothing major.

[IMG]http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/u...122839_274.jpg[/IMG]


http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/u...122913_453.jpg

Would I be fine with just a cap and rotor kit? or should I go ahead and get a new opti. To me it looks clean, I think id be fine with just a cap and rotor, what do you guys think?
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Looks clean as long as there's no signs of oil or water you should be fine. Your opti is a first generation and those are a lot more than the 2nd generation. I would get a msd cap and rotor the rotor is rated for a higher rpm.

Alright, thanks for the help frank, looks like I'll be ordering the msd cap and rotor today.

Based on what I see there I'd have to agree. I've seen the inside of an opti that failed and the reluctor wheel was covered in rust.

Thanks to pizza as well for the help.

i have a 1995 cover ill send to you for cheap If you want to convert to the vented opti now while your there? just an idea.

That would be a good idea. The second gen opti is a better opti.

yeah the venting really isnt a gimmick. after going threw 3 non vented i switch and had No issues after. i tried using a vented opti front cover/cap and rotor on a non vented opti. worked a little better.

I'm a firm believer in the benefits of venting too. I'm on my original opti with 99K miles and no issues (knock on wood).

you just fked yourself lol

Ahhh shit! I already ordered the msd cap and rotor, supposed to be here tomorrow. I appreciate the offer though! What do you have to do to convert? just get the vented cap, and run the vacuum lines? It would definitely be a good idea, but my opti seems pretty clean.

Im pretty sure the original owner of my car told me he went through a few optis when he had it. The one in there has lasted me since 2008. So I cant complain.

change over the front cover. longer dowel pin on the camshaft. vented opti. and the vacuum harness.

How's everything coming.

I had 175k on mine before I replaced the cap and rotor trying to find a miss and they prob could have gone another 75k before really needing to be replaced, still has the oem opti in it. The miss was a burnt plug wire I didn't find till i had all the wires in my hand and found a brittle spot when I was bending the wires.

Still have my old 95 cap out in the garage. I think I'm gonna make a clock out of it lol.

i think LTX tech is still looking for them for trophies. dont know if there still buying em.

I remember rebuilding mine for nothing:

http://northeastf-bodyassn.com/showt...?t=3313&page=6

Selling the car?

Well anyways, I figured id updated this thread since its all said and done with. I replaced the cap and rotor with a new MSD unit, which comes with a vent kit that you hook into your intake, and another line to vacuum. I got it all back together, took it for a ride, and it was still misfiring the exact same way, so I figured great, now I need a whole new opti. I happened to be looking under the car while it was running one day and saw a little bit of flashing going on, I take a closer look, one of my spark plug wires was arcing out on my exhaust manifold. The rear most wire on the drivers side. I pulled the wire out, it didnt look internally damaged, the coating wasnt melted, it was more of a crack. So I just figured what the hell, Ill electical tape it, and wrap it in heat wrap thinking it wouldnt be arcing out on the exhaust manifold anymore, so I should be getting full spark. I drive the car, still misfiring, I was still thinking I needed a whole new opti, when I decided to call my buddy up for an extra plug wire instead. I put the new plug wire in, and now it runs smooth as butter. Which means my opti was still working fine, it was just the plug wire the whole time, but Im still glad i replaced the opti with a newer upgraded unit.
And yes Z28, Im looking to part ways with it, Id like to get myself a nice little project car and build it for some decent power. Id like to get my hands on a notchback roller, and do a 460 bbf swap, its a wicked easy swap, and pretty cheap too. Surprisingly Ive had alot of interest in it already and I just put it up this past friday, 3 people with trades, one notchback roller, one complete notchback, a 65 cuda (hell no) lol, and two other people with cash, Im asking 4k for it.

I saw the ad on CL, which is why I asked. Well glws I still like me a foxbody

Thanks man, cant quite let it go yet, Im dealing with some clutch issues now, gotta fix it first. But thats a little off topic for this thread.

KEEP IT! AFTER ALLL THAT WORK!

Its an lt1 man, its slow as hell, and not really worth dumping money into.

Still faster then most cars out there, stangs included.

I'm stupid

Double post bitch slap

I have been shamed by my internet.