Coilover setup for Autocross
 

Starting a thread I will slowly be adding to it but so far I ordered the following.

Hypercoil 800 lbs 10" x 2.5" coilover spring
Eibach 350 lbs 9.5" x 5" Springs
Front coilover sleeve
rear weight jackers
New differential Auburn racer for AX/RR 2 year replacement DREX plan
10" for AX/ 6" for RR rear spoiler made from homedepot shit

Fronts will look something like this when done

http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1ad2a45e.jpg

Spoiler for car

http://members.cruzio.com/~ablaine/sTAwing2.jpg

http://www.afcodynapro.com/content/s...ent-range-afco

http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=872

Just a word before I finish this car is strictly a Autocross car and Roadracing car. So I dont want to hear anything about the spoiler since it is irrelevant to the street.

Are going fast enough for the spoiler to put enough down force on the rear?

Did you make the rear spoiler, if so it looks pretty dam good.

The spoiler will help slightly I know several people that run them and have claimed to be faster. It will add more preload to the car in theory.

All the ricers are gonna tell you the wing isn't big enough I'd triple the height to be safe.

How far into a race car are you going to convert the car?

Well I can't really pull the interior or anything since the rules state I cant but the car weighs 3390 as it sits. Gonna try to get more out of it.

cool!! what about other front spliiters and stuff?

What kind of results do you expect to see from this setup vs your last setup?

Thats gonna be RAWESOME!

Is that a brake cooling duct in that picture?

Yes. Its is.


I cannot run a splitter due to the rules being dumb. The rules state that a front splitter cannot extend past the nose of the car. So the way the nose of out cars is I cannot run one but mustangs can lol.
As far as results with this setup I think the spring rate will help stay more flat and keep more tire contact patch. I think my current setup simply doesn't have enough spring rate. This is going to allow me to soften my struts and may actually make the car ride better than before with the front on full hard.
I have been on business in Norfolk Va for this week and all of next week. So I dont think there is going to be any updates soon.

Well i dont think I will know until I get it done then take the time to dial the setup it. Just doing stuff to the car is one thing. Tuning all the adjust ability in all the points in the car is a whole another thing entirely.

you need to show more info on those brake ducts thats actually pretty slick.

Just got back from 2 weeks in Norfolk, VA to a pile of parts. Here are some quick photos I'm going to bed I'll post some more later.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-d...627_211432.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1...627_210843.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...627_212146.jpg

Always gotta love a pile of parts overnighted from Japan.

Finished one side. Getting the jam nut off to remove the top hat is a pain.

Before
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...UNSET%255D.jpg

After
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-w...UNSET%255D.jpg

Any useful tips for removing that jam nut?

Ahh the jam nut. I was cruising on this project until I hit that thing. Removing the jam nut is not for the faint of heart. You can either make a custom tool if you are a welder (I 'am not) or you can grind down the top hat till the nut is flush with it. Then I put the top hat in a vice and used a 15/16 wrench and some weird spring loaded plumber tool to remove the jam nut.

On a side note you are going to want a electric impact wrench for this project it makes disassembling ever thing so easy. I can get a strut out and and completely remove the spring with the spring compressor in 30 minutes vs when I didn't have it and it took 1.5-2 hours.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...UNSET%255D.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1...UNSET%255D.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h...UNSET%255D.jpg

One final thought, since I did new brakes do not get pads that at .610 thick get the .5xx otherwise you have to burn them down to seat them correctly.

Just finished the front the car is rolling around now and rides like stock lol. Now I need to get the ride height close to the rear and then I will be taking the rear end out this week.

Next up is Posi replacement and rear suspension.

that is badass.

That is pretty cool

Project update

Got the rearend out and rebuilt should be going back in this weekend. Due to the rules I have to keep the same rearend so I tried to beef it up a bit but in the end its still a 10 bolt lol.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A...UNSET%255D.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k...UNSET%255D.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n...UNSET%255D.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-E...UNSET%255D.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...UNSET%255D.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7...UNSET%255D.jpg

Any updates on if you ran it yet and how it felt? I had the strano springs in my car, but always wondered if I should go a little bigger. It wasn't that hard to still roll the car to full suspension travel.

Also do you run a watts link or do you have or thought about lowering the phb mounting point? I think if I kept my car I would have given the phb lowering a shot.

Yeah I ran the car and it felt 10x better and yes I have a watts link. I was going to make a real thread on ls1tech after this weekend. I will be in Ayer this sunday if you want a ride along. fyi my car last weekend was .75-1 second off a fully built C6 vette.

http://i.imgur.com/xLzcuf5.jpg

you never had me.... you never had your car.... winnings winning!

This dudes killing it. Looks so badass!

corvette is just a better platform plain and simple.

haha im just kidding car flys!!