Quote:
Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10
yeah swap axles over with your backing plates. you have to remove them to swap the brakes Anyway. best thing i do is eithre mark wich way is back, up, down, or faces out on all the shit thats coming out WITH the rear end and you will need to swap over. then you will need to drop the rear cover. remove either the paddle pin or spider shaft depending on what carrier you have? if its an Auburn you will see yellow springs and it will have an 8mm(possibly7mm) bolt holing in the pin. if you have a Zexel Torsen you will hardly be able to see inside the unit and you will see a small tab on the top of what i call a paddle. its a square pin the holds the axles inplace. BE CAREFULL!!! removing this bolt. if it breaks forget it you wont get your axles out.
ok now that the pin is out. puch each axle in SLOWLY as not to ruin the seal at the end but push it in far enough to allow the c clip enough room to pop out. catch it with a magnet. and then reassemble the same way. and use either yellow or blue locktite to hold in the pin bolt. Do Not use Red. or you will break the bolt the next time you try and remove it unless you heat it with a map/propane torch.
any questions text me. 508 208 0525.
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Thanks man i appreciate it.I see you have done this before!!! but one thing is why am i doing all that? the rear end is complete all together it just doesnt have rotors on it has the axles already in. it was in another car a few weeks ago it has rotors brand new i just dont need them i have 3 sets with calipers. Maybe we are thinking differently but i just figured take out the rear and swap it out with the new one i just got. Disconnect the driveshaft, torque arm, calipers, sway bar, rear shocks and thats pretty much it. I must be wrong i just am confused on the whole axle thing. I dont care about the lights for now i'm just using this for a couple months or a couple runs on the track if it breaks haha.