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#21
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its not about better Its about matching the front bar I only have the stock 32 in the front so If I go to large with the rear it will cause it to be twitchy and snappy in the rear. I talked to sam straino for about a half hour on this. I would think he has a clue on what he is talking about when it comes to handling. yes a larger bar will make it run flatter but it will also cause it to be less predictable. when I do upgrade the front I will do the rear till then it will stay matched
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Nitrous is like hot girl with STD's. You know you wanna hit it, but your afraid of the consequences
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#22
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That was my understanding too, the swaybars should be matched to keep the handling balanced. If 60' times are the primary concern I think the drag bar and no front swaybar is probably the best way to go. My car doesn't need much to hook but I can always use more lateral grip, I make the Nitto 555s on the front squeal on a regular basis.
Bigger front and rear bars may be in the future.
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#23
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Matched isn't better depends on what courses banks turns etc either way you always go slightly larger in the rear cause you want some understeer rather then pushing through the corners. Either way you threw all that out the window with your heavier rear that has alot more rotating mass different weight etc. Might as well get a corner balance and go back to the 10 bolt for cornering.
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![]() 2000 SS Procharger 98 Z vert turbo 07 TB SS cai catback and tune |
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#24
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drag racing or road racing, pick one.
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![]() 1999 Z28 T-Top M6 - LS6, Bolt Ons, Suspension, MWC Narrowed 9" - 415rwhp 385rwtq 10.847 @ 125.17 1989 IROC-Z H/T M5 2006 F350 SCSB 4x4 6.0L Diesel - Studs, EGR Delete, Powermax Turbo, Extreme Tuning & Exhaust - 13.23 @ 101 |
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#25
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Road racing!!!!!!!! Oh wait, you weren't asking me...
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#26
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i was talking to everyone, you cant have both.
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![]() 1999 Z28 T-Top M6 - LS6, Bolt Ons, Suspension, MWC Narrowed 9" - 415rwhp 385rwtq 10.847 @ 125.17 1989 IROC-Z H/T M5 2006 F350 SCSB 4x4 6.0L Diesel - Studs, EGR Delete, Powermax Turbo, Extreme Tuning & Exhaust - 13.23 @ 101 |
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#27
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Hey pizza just curious but how much different do you think your rear bar would be with poly endlinks vs. the solids?
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5.3L LSx, Fbody .500 cam, TH400, 4500 Stall, Moser 9" |
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#28
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That's exactly my point. Being mad your car spun tire all day. But don't want to spring for the proper drag setup cuz you won't be able to corner the car makes no sence to me. Balance it out. Do you drag race the car more or road race it moe. If it were me and I wanted to do both id get a sick drag bar. And drop the front bar. And then wen you wanna road race get a diff setup that works best for your driving style. Just because someone sed you should or shouldn't do this(over the phone from miles away not driving your car) doesn't mean he right. Yes he has his experience. But case in point. Manifolds and catted y and joes car is running 12's. If he was a new guy signed up and sed I want my 6 speed car to run 12's wed have sold him a ton of speed parts he didn't need. Just saying.
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![]() 1998 Firebird:buncha parts thats used to make it go fast..... not so much anymore. ![]() BAAAAAA!!!!!! |
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#29
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I don't notice it with the solids over everything else in the car that's not factory. So putting polys on there might help. But with my car won't make a shit bit of difference.
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![]() 1998 Firebird:buncha parts thats used to make it go fast..... not so much anymore. ![]() BAAAAAA!!!!!! |
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#30
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It's actually more "highway off ramp/rural road" racing...
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