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  #41  
Old 05-20-2011, 07:35 AM
SLP IROC-Z SLP IROC-Z is offline
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3000 stall max, 3200 is "bigger" since its a 3200rpm stall converter. 3.42s wont "kill" your mileage. mileage around town shouldnt change. you may lose a little on the highway unless you drive a little slower. 99-02 4 channel axle. i may be interested in selling mine out of my 99
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  #42  
Old 05-20-2011, 01:39 PM
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95-97 LT1 axles reluctors are in a different spot. and the sensors wont pick them up if you use 98-02 axles. you will need All the wiring from the 98 car(as the connectors arent the same. and will probably need to use the LS1 backing plates and brake setup for it all to work with out some finess. But you should be able(if Your axles are still good?) to put them in the new rear end. ive never seen any one go threw all that trouble. Ditch Both. it makes life So much easier. and alot less wires hanging around.
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  #43  
Old 05-20-2011, 01:43 PM
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Why go lower on the stall? i say go big or go home? if you want to have fun with the car AND get a decent track time. i say go 3200+. after seeing and driving tonys car im a believer. The Yank converters are awesome. and with lock up tuned properly fuel mileage over a stock converter will Not bee affected on the high way.
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  #44  
Old 05-20-2011, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10 View Post
95-97 LT1 axles reluctors are in a different spot. and the sensors wont pick them up if you use 98-02 axles. you will need All the wiring from the 98 car(as the connectors arent the same. and will probably need to use the LS1 backing plates and brake setup for it all to work with out some finess. But you should be able(if Your axles are still good?) to put them in the new rear end. ive never seen any one go threw all that trouble. Ditch Both. it makes life So much easier. and alot less wires hanging around.
ok so pizza, your saying get a 98-02 rear end and ditch both abs and asr? Cause then it will just get bolted up and I wont have to worry about wireing?
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  #45  
Old 05-20-2011, 08:53 PM
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Yes. That is what he is saying

Check ls1tech or just use www.car-part.com.
That's where I got the 4th gen rear in my turd gen. Got luck and scored my 3.42 posi rear out an lt1 car for $150 on there a few years back.
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  #46  
Old 05-20-2011, 08:54 PM
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stall wise it all depends on what u are thinking ur setupi s going to be. imo the SS3600 is great for a bolt on only LT1 or a mild cam only or mild head cam car. i get about 20mpg on the highway iirc. driveability is great and i've cut a 1.67 60ft on literally bone stock suspension with less then 300rwhp
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  #47  
Old 05-20-2011, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CamaroRacing12 View Post
stall wise it all depends on what u are thinking ur setupi s going to be. imo the SS3600 is great for a bolt on only LT1 or a mild cam only or mild head cam car. i get about 20mpg on the highway iirc. driveability is great and i've cut a 1.67 60ft on literally bone stock suspension with less then 300rwhp
I'm trying to avoid a total strip car, I want a really solid street strip car.

I'm not going to point out the little things like supporting mods, just the bigger things.

The end goal (so ill say end of 2013) will be in between 350-400 rwhp. I'm only going to do ported heads and middle of the road cam and a stall. I think that should get me close to my power goal. I know Dyno #s arn't everything but thats just to give you an idea where I want to be for power. Id like to keep stock displacement if i can, or at most, a 355.

I plan on upgrading the suspension to handle corners; bigger sway bars, inch drop all around, and better shocks. a 9 inch at some point. I'm not going to be auto crossing with it, but i do like carving corners from time to time.

So i figure with some sticky tires and the above mods i should have a good performer on and off the track.
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  #48  
Old 05-22-2011, 01:14 AM
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So, I ran into some money to finish buttoning up some loose ends on the camaro, Time to ditch the "stock" cat back with a magnaflow(i think, would have to look) in place of the stock muffler.

I'm thinking of running a long powerstick with a turn down just before the axle. Will this end up being WAY to loud and should i run a resionator/bullet in line with the powerstick? I'm looking for a cheap cheap cat back options. I have mild steel headers so I'm not investing in a stainless cat back. Gmmg,stainless works ect.

I'm also guessing it will free up a few hp too.

I've looked and looked and cant find anything with cat delete, lts, and y pipe to dumped powerticks. Everyone goes xpipe duals.
Thanks guys!
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  #49  
Old 05-22-2011, 01:47 AM
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y not just straight pipe? haha Powersticks Really dont tone or quite the exhaust at ALL! and as far as the rwhp goes. i made 10 rwhp and 5mph at the track from swapping my Blowmaster to the Hooker Aero chamber. So if you have stockish exhaust youll make some more fo sho. haha i dunno i say go with a standard 3" cat back. you can pick em up used for Not alot of money. check out LS1 Tech there on there ALL the time!
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Old 05-22-2011, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10 View Post
y not just straight pipe? haha Powersticks Really dont tone or quite the exhaust at ALL! and as far as the rwhp goes. i made 10 rwhp and 5mph at the track from swapping my Blowmaster to the Hooker Aero chamber. So if you have stockish exhaust youll make some more fo sho. haha i dunno i say go with a standard 3" cat back. you can pick em up used for Not alot of money. check out LS1 Tech there on there ALL the time!
Well I dont want to go duals, to much work and money, and how would a stright pipe sound running through a Ypipe with nothing else?

I'm just looking to get a SMALL SMALL amount of muffling in low rpms, and could care less the rest of the time, and wasn't sure if the power stick would do that. So will it?

And I will check out the f/s in 1s1tech, but a place in lowell sells the powersticks for 70~ bucks, plus a band clamp ~10 and a turn down ~ 10. If i can find a cat back shipped to my door for cheaper I will but...
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