#1
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Non F Body question - 12 volt outlet
The 12V power outlet in my Civic is only on with the ignition switch in accessory or on, and I want to wire it to be on all the time, to power phone and GPS chargers. What would be a good circuit to tap into? It's rated for 10 amps, I'd like to at least keep that or up it to 15. The first thing that came to mind is the constant power wire to the radio. Any other suggestions? I believe in an F Bucket it shares the same circuit as the OBD-II port, which is also near the outlet.
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#2
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look in the fuse box. there might be a double fuse holder for the cig fuse one will be switched power and one will be on all the time.
__________________
1998 Firebird:buncha parts thats used to make it go fast..... not so much anymore. BAAAAAA!!!!!! |
#3
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Goto to the constant wire off the ignition harness. In Hondas its usually white and will be about a 10-12 gauge wire. Make sure you put a fuse on your lead from the constnat to the outlet. I wouls also not cut the plug behind the cig lighter. Just run your new 12v line and also run a new ground. Leave the plug so that if you ever want to change back its easy and because the circuit the lighter is on now will still be live.
__________________
2001 Navy Blue Metallic Z28 hardtop. M6, black Z06 wheels(17x9.5 fronts/18x10.5 rears), Thunder 224cam, Kooks 1 7/8 stainless headers/ypipe, Magnaflow exhaust, Hurst shifter, SLP CAI/lid, K&N air filter, Manley double roller timing chain, 160stat, Thunder ported oil pump, SPEC Stage 3+ clutch w/billet flywheel, Powerstop cross-drilled/slotted rotors, and SLOWHAWK TUNED!!! SLOWHAWK IS THE MUTHAFUCKIN MAN! |
#4
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So are you saying leave the existing positive wire on the outlet and connect the new wire from the ignition switch? Couldn't bridging those two circuits cause some sort of issue?
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#5
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No unplug the factory plug but dont cut it off. Just leave it unplugged and run your new wires directly to the outlet.
__________________
2001 Navy Blue Metallic Z28 hardtop. M6, black Z06 wheels(17x9.5 fronts/18x10.5 rears), Thunder 224cam, Kooks 1 7/8 stainless headers/ypipe, Magnaflow exhaust, Hurst shifter, SLP CAI/lid, K&N air filter, Manley double roller timing chain, 160stat, Thunder ported oil pump, SPEC Stage 3+ clutch w/billet flywheel, Powerstop cross-drilled/slotted rotors, and SLOWHAWK TUNED!!! SLOWHAWK IS THE MUTHAFUCKIN MAN! |
#6
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OK gotcha. I know it's pretty easy to get to the ignition harness cause I had the on/off wire for my amp in there at one point. I'll check the fuse box too like Pizza suggested.
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#7
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It is a way safer connection to goto the ignition harness than to the fusebox. Comes out way cleaner too. Tapping into fuse boxes can cause damage quick. Most of the time it doesnt but it can.
__________________
2001 Navy Blue Metallic Z28 hardtop. M6, black Z06 wheels(17x9.5 fronts/18x10.5 rears), Thunder 224cam, Kooks 1 7/8 stainless headers/ypipe, Magnaflow exhaust, Hurst shifter, SLP CAI/lid, K&N air filter, Manley double roller timing chain, 160stat, Thunder ported oil pump, SPEC Stage 3+ clutch w/billet flywheel, Powerstop cross-drilled/slotted rotors, and SLOWHAWK TUNED!!! SLOWHAWK IS THE MUTHAFUCKIN MAN! |
#8
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I looked in the fuse box and there isn't a second spot where the outlet fuse could go, so I'll just run a wire from the ignition switch. I'll add an inline fuse holder too. Is a 15 amp ok or should I go lower?
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#9
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whats the stock one rated for? use that size. going bigger can just cause harm to the socket if it cant handle the load. 15 is what they usually are though.
__________________
1998 Firebird:buncha parts thats used to make it go fast..... not so much anymore. BAAAAAA!!!!!! |
#10
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Yeah usually, but this one says 12V 120W, which is ten amps. I don't see why it couldn't be 15 though.
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