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  #21  
Old 05-19-2011, 08:25 PM
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i mean its only an LT1 and no boost your not talking 600 at the tires. BUT the tranny is a weak point. and with a good set of tires its going to be either the tranny or rear end that will fail. up to you wich you want to upgrade first. id rather blow rear ends and keep buying 300 dollar replacements then have to spend 700+ for a good shape 4L60E. id say talk to a good tranny place like FLT. see what they recomend for your current and future plans.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10 View Post
i mean its only an LT1 and no boost your not talking 600 at the tires. BUT the tranny is a weak point. and with a good set of tires its going to be either the tranny or rear end that will fail. up to you wich you want to upgrade first. id rather blow rear ends and keep buying 300 dollar replacements then have to spend 700+ for a good shape 4L60E. id say talk to a good tranny place like FLT. see what they recomend for your current and future plans.
Just at a quick glance looks like ~1600-2k. So looks like ill have to have about 4k set aside to do it all in one wack, and thats not counting wheels and tires either. So i could put the rear end in with no ill effects, but should wait and do the stall tires and tranny all at once? Seem like a good course of action?
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:00 PM
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ya id just pick up the rear for now...check out ls1tech people get rid of those rear ends all the time for decent money. I did my gears first so i could get a quick boost in power the cheapest way..then save up money for the tranny and stall and do it in one shot.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:18 PM
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ya id just pick up the rear for now...check out ls1tech people get rid of those rear ends all the time for decent money. I did my gears first so i could get a quick boost in power the cheapest way..then save up money for the tranny and stall and do it in one shot.
Seems like the plan to get the rear first then tranny and stall later, now I'm just not sure if i should hold out on sticky tires or not tho. I think with no stall and 3.42s everything would survive. Cause i also would be driving it knowing something could pop and wont thrash it i have upgraded everything.

So a 3 series carrier rear will bolt right up and maintain my abs? ASR is of no importance to me.

Thats the only thing I'm confused on still is which rear end will work.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:28 PM
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You will need a 4 channel. They are typically more expensive. And if you get a 4 channel then both will still work. And don't forget you will need a mail order tune for the gears or you will burn up your tranny in no time.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10 View Post
You will need a 4 channel. They are typically more expensive. And if you get a 4 channel then both will still work. And don't forget you will need a mail order tune for the gears or you will burn up your tranny in no time.
Already have tuning tunercats, so ill be able to adjust it my self. And if I was willing to ditch both abs and asr would i be able to get a cheaper rear end? Or will it not make a difference?
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:54 PM
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a 4channel has abs and tcs and the sensors are on the ends of the axles. How would you go from one plug in the middle to the 2 on the ends pizza boy?
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  #28  
Old 05-20-2011, 12:29 AM
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If he has traction control he HAS a 4 channel Meat head.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:37 AM
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I have ASR and ABS, I want to LOSE the ASR and keep ABS if i can. I WILL get rid of ABS if its cheaper and easier to get a rear end. Its not my DD do it makes no difference.

So two questions now.

What channel would i need to keep ABS and lose ASR?
What channel would i need to lose BOTH ABS and ASR?
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  #30  
Old 05-20-2011, 01:01 AM
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3 channel is just ABS and 4 channel is ASR and ABS
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