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Old 11-20-2012, 05:16 AM
bottledbird68 bottledbird68 is offline
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Default Best deal on 383 stroker kit for lt1?

Thinking of freshening up the motor from the Camaro before it goes in the third gen. Before I spend hours surfing the web anyone know who has the best deal going out there for a fully forged 383 stroker kit for an lt1?

Figure if I'm going to spend 6-700 on forged rods/pistons I may as well add another $500 or so for a crank too and go all out.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:20 PM
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The stock crank is pretty strong
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:30 PM
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From reading on ls1tech, most of the forged stuff is alright, even the forged Eagle stuff so long as its gone over before you put it in.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:55 PM
bottledbird68 bottledbird68 is offline
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I know the stock crank is most likely enough for what I'm looking for but if I'm going to end up buying rods/pistons and having to get it rebalanced I figure why not spring an extra $500 or so and build a 383.

I was looking at the eagle kits, Ohio crank, and a bunch of others. Just figured I'd ask if anyone knew who had the best overall deal rather than me surf the web for hours comparing.

Definitely want to stay all forged though. If I actually do go through freshening it up I'm probably going to change the cam and spring for a good set of heads too. Shooting for 425-450 rwhp and then whack it with 2 stages of nitrous on top of that when the mood strikes. I don't see having the 68 ready for spring timewise or budget wise cause her wrx needs some stuff too but a fresh 383 I think I can fit in the budget. Especially if I can sell the camaros shell once the driveline is out.
Dying for a bad ass toy again that I actually enjoy driving. Never really fell in love with the z and after blasting around in it last night for a bit I realize just how much I miss having a fun ride
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:19 PM
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They say stock cranks good to 400whpish?
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:39 PM
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stock rods are good for that. crank has no known failure hp. ive never seen or heard of one breaking. not the point he ask about a 383.... stock crank wont do it. haha

i have the eagle 396 kit wish is the SAME as the 383 kit with 6" rods. so the r/s angle isnt shit compared to the 383 and 5.7" rods. thats my recommendation. and i got it from ohio crank. came prebalanced with the sheet. pistons were all gram matched. only issue is you can NOT use the stock flywheel unless you have it re balanced for Zero. or have a billet flywheel with a bolted on weight removed(what i did but mines aluminum). i paid 1800 shipped for everything and bolted it in.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:54 PM
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Yeah I know the stock crank is fine for all motor power I'm shooting for. It was the extra 2-250 shot of nitrous that had me forged crank shopping. I have a big kit sitting here new in the package that I can't seem to sell so may as well use it lol.

That's part of the issue I was running into pizza was lt1 balancing. I was looking more at the $1200 kits eagle listed that were all forged. If its an extra $500 or so I'll to go 383 I'll do it. If its an extra grand plus needing a $300+ dollar flywheel I'll just build a 355, shoot for 400+ rwhp and spray from there. If the crank and flywheel are going to add that much more ill pass cause that will almost cover a Lloyd Elliot head/cam package

Looking for best bang for the buck and an extra 20-30 horse from a 383/396 isn't worth an extra $1,000+ to me
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:39 PM
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i bet you wont even net that kind of gain. 396 and 383 are heavier. and forged components on top of that are more so. all the cubes do is move the torque curve and by doing so move the hp curve down to a usable rpm limit. a decent cam on an LT will want to see 7k before its done making power. 383 will see around 6500 and 396 about 6k on the same cam(CC306). when i was looking. and thats not even a big cam no a days. i say 396 as its not any more then a 383 kit. and buy billet caps and have the block line honed and decked TO the rotating assembly. then you should be good. and if your doing any aftermarket clutch with an aggressive type disk it will chew up the stock flywheel pretty quick. so a new flywheel is needed Anyway.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:07 PM
bottledbird68 bottledbird68 is offline
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Part of my other concern with that is I was thinking about the twin disk clutches. Unless they have a removeable weight then that would screw me there.
I'm no opposed to a high winding 355 either. Shifting over 7,000 is fun
And before you say it, planning on a 24x conversion too so factory ecu is not a limiting factor for rpm.

I was planning on studding the mains, from what I was reading it sounded like that was enough? I think I'd just try and find a factory 4 bolt block before I deal with aftermarket caps and line boring. That right there is like another $700 or so. Worst case I stick to one stage of juice and only whack it 150 horse or so instead of 250 lol.
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:30 PM
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i spent 1800 in block work alone. splayed 4 bolt caps, line bore, deck, bored, finish prep. After i clearanced the block for the stroker kit. wich was fun and scary to say the least. Took out a TON of material and still had to clearance the bolts for the pan rails and cylinder skirts.
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