#1
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IM GOING CRAZY!!!!!
Alright, so im trying to hook up and indicator light to my slp line lock, and im banging my head against the wall. Now im no electrical genious, but this whole thing makes absolututely no sense. In THEORY, the line lock shouldnt evem work, but it does, it functions fine. Check out the picture its the best way i could make a wiring diagram for it. any suggestions? Or am I doing this COMPLETELY WRONG?
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD 2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now.... DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer. |
#2
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looks like you have both wires to the light going to ground
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1999 Z28 T-Top M6 - LS6, Bolt Ons, Suspension, MWC Narrowed 9" - 415rwhp 385rwtq 10.847 @ 125.17 1989 IROC-Z H/T M5 2006 F350 SCSB 4x4 6.0L Diesel - Studs, EGR Delete, Powermax Turbo, Extreme Tuning & Exhaust - 13.23 @ 101 |
#3
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the line lock solenoid has two wires coming off it (as you know) one wire needs positive voltage and the other needs negative/ground in order to energize the solenoid. the easiest way to wire one into a 4th gen is to get positive power of the distribution box on the drivers side fender skirt, this is the most convenient place and allow your power wire to be less than foot long (there should be a fuse in between that wire). then run the other wire into the car to a switch, run a wire off the other terminal of the switch and ground it. the switch will activate the solenoid by completing the ground circuit when in the on position. the simplest way to wire in an indicator light would be to splice into the ground wire between the switch and solenoid and then wire the other side of the light to power. now when you activate the line lock your indicator light will have ground and turn on.
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1999 Z28 T-Top M6 - LS6, Bolt Ons, Suspension, MWC Narrowed 9" - 415rwhp 385rwtq 10.847 @ 125.17 1989 IROC-Z H/T M5 2006 F350 SCSB 4x4 6.0L Diesel - Studs, EGR Delete, Powermax Turbo, Extreme Tuning & Exhaust - 13.23 @ 101 |
#4
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After reading up on SLP's installation guide, other F-body owners have said that it is a dangerous way to wire the system. This is what I found: (It's not NHRA or IHRA legal because it's a toggle switch and not a momentary switch. The other problem is it's ground activated the way it's set up. If the wire running into the car gets cut and shorts out it can activate the line lock since it's hooked direct to the hot side of the fuse box.) I could change it, but the system works fine, but your saying tap into the wire that goes from the solenoid to the switch, and then to the fused wire coming from the battery?
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD 2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now.... DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer. |
#5
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id rather have a ground wire short out and "short" to .... it cant short. yes it will activate the solenoid and Yes you can still stop. its not an on off valve wen activated you can still push threw the valve stopping the car you will just have a hard time moving after wards. unless you use factory grommets and insulate the wiring right whether its a ground or power wire it wont be an issue. if you half ass it then either way you do it is bad.
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1998 Firebird:buncha parts thats used to make it go fast..... not so much anymore. BAAAAAA!!!!!! |
#6
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Quote:
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1999 Z28 T-Top M6 - LS6, Bolt Ons, Suspension, MWC Narrowed 9" - 415rwhp 385rwtq 10.847 @ 125.17 1989 IROC-Z H/T M5 2006 F350 SCSB 4x4 6.0L Diesel - Studs, EGR Delete, Powermax Turbo, Extreme Tuning & Exhaust - 13.23 @ 101 |
#7
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I use grommets and all that, I dont half-ass my cars. But that circuit had me SO confused for the longest time, now I think I got it all figured out, I'll take another crack at it tomorrow.
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD 2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now.... DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer. |
#8
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did my post make any sense?
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1999 Z28 T-Top M6 - LS6, Bolt Ons, Suspension, MWC Narrowed 9" - 415rwhp 385rwtq 10.847 @ 125.17 1989 IROC-Z H/T M5 2006 F350 SCSB 4x4 6.0L Diesel - Studs, EGR Delete, Powermax Turbo, Extreme Tuning & Exhaust - 13.23 @ 101 |
#9
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Yes, thanks Im going to wire it up that way tomorrow after work. I just get frustrated way too fast and over-look things lol.
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD 2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now.... DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer. |
#10
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All fixed, I just said screw it, and re-wired it the right way, and hooked up my indicator light, everything functions fine now.
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD 2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now.... DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer. |
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