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Old 03-20-2010, 06:47 AM
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KLAB KLAB is offline
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Yeah me and my step dad kind of used a torque wrence AND the degree method when doing the heads in the vette. Fun times.

95 Z28 hard top - LT1 | 4L60e | bolt ons | Yank SS3600 | suspension | viking coil overs | 3.42 10 bolt | 3520 lbs - 12.331 @ 108.22mph 1.668 60'
08 Saab 9-7x - L96 6.0 swap | L92 heads/intake/TB | LS6 cam | LS9 springs | 7.425" hardened pushrods | CAI | 1-3/4" stepped LT's | catback | 4L60E | FTI 3000 278mm converter
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Old 03-22-2010, 05:15 PM
John in RI John in RI is offline
Popped My Cherry
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Setting roller rockers seems to be a little trickier than stamped rockers. There always seems to be a bit more 'play' when installing rollers ! I always push the rod up hard into the rocker first, set the socket in place, then wiggle the rod up and down against the rocker and the lifter until there's no more "clacking". Then give the nut a slight turn and feel if the rod gets harder to spin. Once it does - 3/4 of a turn in 1/4 increments and done !

One thing I've noticed after doing rockers 1/2 dozen times or so,....... Be sure that the socket does NOT interfere with the rocker at any point. There is a tendancy for the socket to make contact with the top or side of the rocker when tighning it down and this is why I prefer to wiggle the rod up and down first. I can be sure that the rocker is making contact with the rod on it's own rather than the socket forcing the rocker to make contact the rod.

In short - use a short socket and be sure that it's not altering the position of the rocker arm as it gets tighened to the stud/rod !

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Old 03-22-2010, 06:35 PM
84ta406 84ta406 is offline
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I do similar.. I spin the pushrod in place until I feel it get a tiny bit resistance and then I tighten down.
5.3L LSx, Fbody .500 cam, TH400, 4500 Stall, Moser 9"
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