No matter what you say its always a shit show lol.

so would 100 octane be safe to run in the motor?

Screw that Im all set with running race gas all the time. Sey hello to 8 bux a gallon, no thanks

can you run 11:1 on cast heads? Yes. Do it safely? Debatable. My thing with it is. i ran a motor with 11.2:1 compression on gm stock castings and the edges of the chambers debured. i had to run such little timing to keep the motor from AUDIBLY detonating that i would have made more power with a SAFE 9.5-10:1 compression. and had more fun. you HAVE to make sure your tune is right ALL the time or like me you are gunna be out there every time the D/A has a big change. as a carb doesnt give a shit. But if its something your gunna pick up and drive for fun COOL. i drove my 87 IROC back and forth to work Everyday. killing TH350's Monthly! haha

Lol rflmao :p

this is just going to be a car show car and maybe a cruise here and there. i have an appointment with new england dyno to have this thing tuned.don't really mind running a higher octane fuel as this car will not be driven everyday. i truly appreciate all the info you guys have giving me.

here is what is done to the motor
 

1) Quickfuel 850 cfm carb with mechanical secondaries. The motor should only require 800 cfm at 6500 r.p.m.by the guys at Quickfuel. 750 c.f.m. would have been a little bit small.
2) Warrior single plane intake. Doug Nash reproduction. It was the best set up in the late 60's early 70's
3) RA III heads with 3 angle valve job. All new valves. Norris Stainless steel roller rockers (1.65 ratio) No flex like aluminum. Poly locks with stud girdle and push rod guides. No rocker flex. Heads were cc'd at 72 to get the pistons made. Port matched intake / exhaust. No other port work. ARP bolts.
4) Howards solid cam. .542 lift. Chrome moly push rods and retainers.
5) Milodon single idler gear drive for the cam. Multiple key ways to advance or retard the cam. Installed and degreed straight up.
6) Original cast crank. .01" / .01" under. Cross drilled and oil holes chamfered. Corners on journals radiused. Shot peened and polished. Balanced with bob weights the same as each piston, pin and rod assembly weighed, and that flex plate installed. All assemblies with in a gram or so. Much lighter than stock components.
7) Howards 6061 T6 aluminum connecting rods. .01" shorter for rod stretch. Big ends and little ends balanced. Floating pins .984" diameter,.02" side clearance on the rods.
8) Venolia .03" over forged pistons. 11:1 compression.
9) Melling RA IV oil pump. High volume / high pressure.
10) Unilite distributor with mechanical advance. Should be set with 34 degrees total advance.Mallory promaster high output coil.
11) RV flex fan. It moves a lot of air to keep it cool.
12) Harmonic balancer with degrees marked on the o.d. SFI certified.
13) GTO power steering pump and pully set up. A/C deleted.
14) Milodon high capacity low profile oil pan with a windage tray.
15) Hooker super comp. 4 tube headers with crank case evacuation kit. 3" Torque Tech. exhaust thru Dynomax mufflers.
16) 2 bolt main block with the mains strapped and ARP bolts.
17) 3500 r.p.m. advertised stall TCI converter.
18) 4.33:1 Richmond gears. 9" Ford rear out of a '70 Mustang.

Thats a limited time engine. Meaning you better know how to wrench on it.

It looks to be 1/2 a race motor then some parts put into it for street duty.

i don't mind wrench time. but this motor should be fine for what i'm using it for.

Sounds like a decent build, probably similar power to your old TA but with more TQ. I bet it'll go 12's