http://www.huntsmachine.com/383ss01p3.html found some good info here. just read parts of it but it better explains what i mean. David talk to your engine guy. he will/better know all of this and will point you in the best direction for a stock appearing engine rebuild to run pump gas 93 octane which is what i recommend.

OK, Thanks! Will do.

Btw i took this from a 302 motor builder who races nastalgia classes and stock race classes
In my experience the actual compression ratio on most of the "original" 302s was lucky to be 10 to 1, although they were rated at 11.0. I usually had to deck the the block to legal specs, and mill a bunch from the heads to get them to min (again legal) ccs, and the 11 to 1 comp ratio. In my opinion its just hard to get comp in small engines.

David either way just rebuild it stock cause obviously that is the whole reason you bought the car and just put it on a dyno or have the
Engine builder put it on a engine dyno and check what
It needs before running it around

I am going to have a long talk with Norm. He has been rebuilding engines for a long time so he should have some good advice. I was definitely planning on having him dyno it.

Thanks for all your help!!! You and Pizza have given me a lot to think about!!!

Engine is out......
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-03-56_179.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-04-50_218.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-06-56_453.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-11-41_267.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-10-19_392.jpg

great time to freshen up the heater blower and the heater core lol!

Yep. The previous owner had pulled out the heater core and blower since it sprung a leak. He took a complete heater setup out of a scrapped 69 Camaro.

Should I get a new heater core from Ricks though? It would be terrible to put an old one in and have it leak.

Ricks has this one for $60. Part number HC-20


http://htsmall.rickscamaros.com/asse.../sku/HC-20.jpg

get a new one, infact
get a spare like I did!
you have 2 69s now.
I have a heater assy with cables and controls if ya need it?
come check out the heater core aswell cuz i didnt really need it lol.

OK. l'll call you and stop by sometime soon. I'll buy the heater core off you.

Thanks!

I picked up a BadBoy Vacuum recovery portable Media blaster. Found it on Craigslist for $225.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...oy-blaster.jpg

I also found my first nasty through-hole on the body on the passenger side fender near the bottom. I poked at it for a while and then cleaned it up with a dremel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1-05-27_47.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-03-44_538.jpg

I took the the passenger side inner and outer fenders off to start cleaning them up. My father-in-law and I welded in a new piece about an hour ago. It still needs some work.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-36-13_952.jpg

damn that looks nasty hope there arent too many more of those!

So far…. that is the only real nasty spot.
----------------------------------------------------------
A lot of the parts were replaced in the 302 DZ.

The cam had been changed. I think it might be a Crane cam.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-15-03_872.jpg
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=23891
One of the lobes was wiped out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-15-25_912.jpg

Norm is going to change it to an exact equivalent of the original 30/30 with a Comp Cams kit #CL12-107-3.

Cam Style Mechanical flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,800-6,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 254
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 254
Duration at 050 inch Lift 254 int./254 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 346
Advertised Exhaust Duration 346
Advertised Duration 346 int./346 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.485 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.485 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.485 int./0.485 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 114
Camshaft Gear Attachment 3-bolt
Intake Valve Lash 0.024 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.024 in.
Grind Number 346S

Pic of the block
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-20-26_461.jpg

One of the guys working there said the double roller chain on the crankshaft is not correct. I looked it up and stock is supposed to be timing chain (3896961), crank sprocket (3896959) and cam sprocket (3896960).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-40-14_349.jpg

Oil pump is not stock:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-37-54_685.jpg

is that cam an eco fuel saver cam. lol

that sucks. alot of work tracking down OE parts? but is now the time to drop in a better cam more technological cam but similar lope to a stocker.

The Comp Cams replacement is supposed to be pretty good and the kit is $225.

The spec sheet page is here: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...px?csid=3&sb=2

IMO I would put an equivlent roller cam in.
less chance for lobe wipe and itll free up some HP.
but if you do go with an original make sure you use zinc additive in the oil or else itll wipe a lobe sooner than later.

You are right, but I'm staying original on this one Dawg. Will take your advice on the zinc additive.

hjust run rotella 15w 40. has the zinc in it already no need to buy a seperate additive.

OK, Great! That makes it easier.

last year Rotella cut back on the zinc so it isnt as good as it used to be.
read up here:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/arc.../t-449335.html
David thats why I have those little bottles of ZDDP. I gave ya one to put in your 68.

yeah i was just reading that^^ chevron delo is good to use. still has 1500ppm of zddp.

Amsoil now makes a Zinc Added Synthetic:
Z-Rod 20W-50

They say 'High Zinc', and I did find a dealer quote:
'The TSB lists that these oils have zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm'

So knowing Amsoil's reputation, this may be a nice option:Tigger::sCh_sonic:

Edit: Found the TSB: Amsoil Flat Tappet and Lobe Lubrication TSB

ouch 10.20 a quart????
but at least there is something out there.
I seen some use golden spectro (motorcycle oil) has very high zinc.

spectro is nice too. id say just get the chevron delo. its cheap and has the same content as amsoil for less then half the cost.

thks Pizza the delo does have some good zinc numbers.
at least the 10W30 does
heres the specs
http://shorelinefuel.com/msds/delooil_msds.pdf

If you join the Amsoil 'Preferred Customer Program' ($20/year at most), it drops the price to ~$7.50/qt., which is still not cheap, but at least palatable.

This week, I primered one of the inner fenders with an epoxy 2K primer. It came in a rattle can and worked out nice.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-02-41_908.jpg

The subframe is off and is in my garage right now:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-30-11_189.jpg

The engine is looking good and will probably be fired up soon:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-38-45_206.jpg

I brought a whole bunch of subframe parts (and some other parts) to Labrecque Autocraft for Mike to rebuild the front end:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-03-56_833.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-04-18_419.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-03-14_533.jpg

The body is about to go on the body cart:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-50-57_647.jpg

The underside is fairly clean:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2-35_150-1.jpg

But I found two small rust spots on the side of the body near the bottom.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-55-29_497.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-57-01_182.jpg

Except for these two spots, I think the rest of the body is A-OK.

I saw a green first gen at Marks last night and I thought it might be yours but then I remembered it was in pieces haha. You really put a lot of attention into detail with your cars, I'm sure this one will turn out great too.

HA! At least I have one to cruise around in. The 68 except for idling high rules!!! I thought Marks was over. I missed it last night and could not have gone anyway due to a Cub Scout pack meeting.

I try to do the best I can with the detail work, but the only real thing that ever really gets me is rust. I just hate it.

--------------------------------------------------
Rust Edit: On the inner fender, I ground off most of the surface rust with a 3M SandBlaster 9681 4-1/2-Inch Coarse Clean-N-Strip Disc: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQURDI

Then, for the spots I couldn't reach, I used Ospho.

I read in a whole bunch of postings that:

a) when you use Ospho, you shouldn't use an etching primer
b) when you are primering bare metal, you should not use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint
c) use an epoxy primer

For epoxy primer, I went with Spray Max Epoxy Primer: http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-ep...r-aerosol.html

all good stuff!!!! Good Luck with it. that motor looks AWESOME!!!

This man speaks truths. Cracked the #6 piston on my step dads domed 1970 LT1 that way. Lower compression iron heads killed power but runs great now. :klab:

I contacted Eastwood Tech Help and found that Rust Encapsulator is supposed to be fine over bare metal as a primer. They told me to ensure that the surface was scuffed with 180-220 grit paper and properly cleaned. I used it as a bare metal primer on the firewall and radiator support of my Land Rover. I sandblasted the parts, then gave then a quick once-over with 220 grit before cleaning and spraying on the Encapsulator. After dry, it was top coated with either military CARC-substitute enamel paint or Rust-Oleum semi-gloss black enamel. So far, so good.

I'll probably be going with 100 octane and a lead additive.

Thanks Jeff. This is good to know. I have 4 or 5 cans here.

hollands garage will help ya out .
they sell 50 gal barrels of the fuel (leaded or unleaded)
better off with the leaded gas, those lead additives are not so great.

Sounds good. Thanks Dawg!!!

If your interested David, my friend is selling a new drum of C16. I'm not sure on price but I can find out if you want me to.

Thanks for the offer Ron!!! At this point though, I am not sure. I will talk to Norm at Precision and see what he thinks.

Engine is done, but Norm is out this week. Should be on the dyno next week.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-28-07_375.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-29-06_179.jpg