its like re-bolting your mains with different fasteners......rods should always be at least checked for housing runout when you replace bolts......the higher clamping force can push the housing out of round compared to stock bolts...

^ Yeah Mikes Right. ALWAYS a good idea to have it checked. and on the SBC i dont know about the ls1 but it should be line honed upon change of fasteners espescially to studs. like i sed i dont know if the LS are the same??

Ya thats why i went ahead and did it because i dont want something to fail over a stupid 40 bucks haha. And i hear the ls is different but after countless threads on this topic i just went ahead and did it even though the machine shop said i really didnt need it at all.

We've changed rod bolt's in the car many times. Never a problem or failure. Just change 1 at a time,torque,move on.

There is a big difference in clamping force between head bolts and head studs. We run bolt's on NA cars and studs on FI cars. We run the factory gasket (seen no need for the more layer ls9's) and over torque them to 85 ft/lbs with the arp lube. It just works.

Ya i changed one at a time but just to be safe i second guessed myself and took them to a machine shop. Glad i did becasue i didnt think of taking the ferrels out OOPS so its a damn good thing i took them out!!! But now i'll have to do the bearings in the rods i'm sure....... And yes i have studs i just typed that in. 85lbs on the studs or your talking the reg head bolts?

looking awesome doug motor looks great big diffrence!!!

Pistons and rods (resized with new bearings) back in with the TU2 Cam, and SLP Double timing chain with SLP Oil Pump.....
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...1/IMAG0644.jpg

Looks good man apparently u gave up on just blowing up stockers?

Starting to make me feel bad about my single roller chain and stock oil pump. lol

I only thought of it since you put it in my car lol and got a hell of a deal on both.

Ya I'm getting in over my head haha i kept saying well I should do this and it led to anothet 500+ dollars but that's it for the motor on this one. Wanted a little strength added to this motor.

I think it was a great idea you should be good for 1000ish flywheel.

You think? id be very happy with that. I just didnt want to do all this work and blow it up with ease. And if i end up with the e85 i think i can push it a little harder but we will see. I just want to get it going on pump gas first.

What you guys think about crank pulley? I dont have ac but really dont feel like dropping 300 on a pulley. Keep stock, or powerbond or.......

I don't think it matters that much to you but why stop now :) throw a powerbond on it.

Depends on your application but if your spinning past 6500? An aftermarket pulley is highly recommended.

I think my buddy can't use the powerbond from my old motor so he might give it to me. He cant fit it in the miata lol

If you don't plan on running it at the track,keep the stock one.

keep an eye on tech, i got a brand new powerbond on there for 140 shipped, came with two brand new crank bolts to!

That's a deal. My buddies dad said it won't fit in the miata so iI'm getting it free....happy about that

Nice!

Sweet Deal!!

More work done today finished installing the Lunati Double springs and threw the heads on........Timing chain has a little slack but i guess i was reading it is common on these cars.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...1/IMAG0654.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...1/IMAG0655.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...1/IMAG0656.jpg

looks good man

Thanks! :) gonna fire it up this weekend just to hear the motor run

Ha I'm sure there's no better feeling than lighting up a motor after you built it.

Forgive me if you mentioned it already but what intake is that?

Just a ls6 intake

looks Great!!!! i get first dibs on a ride!!!!! haha

:) thanks. You can take it down the track once I get it all set!!!

Oh boy was a nice car :p

Threw on the Valve covers and FAST fuel rails today. Getting very close now......
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ejpeg952_2.jpg
Edit changed my mind too much red went with black valve covers
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...1/IMAG0659.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...1/IMAG0660.jpg

that poor car has MORE SHIT All Over itt!!!!

Everyday new parts come in and i throw them on top of her haha but as new parts go in stuff comes off of it lol

^u should see this guys trunk, you could rebuild a car from the ground up with the tools n shit in there. helps with the traction though haha

engines lookin fresh, cant wait to hear it run!

haha ran 11's with all that shit in there!! So whos got a good method for getting a broken bolt out of the head? theres two on this thing and its been a bitch i had left drill bit and easy outs. didnt happen! so the weld trick is that pretty much it? Oh and i'd like to add FAST customer service blows. my 3rd set of fuel rails and they havent sent me the correct ones yet. i told him i had a ls6 intake yet he sent me the rails to work only for "Fast" intakes. i've paid for shipping on all 3 sets. Worst customer service i've ever seen. He even said it wasnt the first time he's heard that. lol

yeah weld a nut let it cool and heat the area around the broken bolts with propane after cooling. and SLOWLY work at it back and forth. are they near exhaust ports? if so warm them up from inside the port for less heat transfer to the bolt.

Ya its near the port ill try that this weekend .......what you think 3 bar fast map sensor?? I know the cobalt ss is good for 14psi I believe but the fast isn't much more money

she's coming along great!

Keep in mind when you weld to the stud you will never/ever be able to drill it after. We always drill them out first.

2.5 bar sensor would be better.