I'm rebuilding my shortblock soon. Not gonna pull a cap hell naw. Just going to hone, new rings and rod bolts and a decent top end :3 Good luck with the motor where are you doing to bring the block to have machining done or whatever.

Just got the motor back from the machine shop just got to paint it and start putting it back together. The trans is painted and the mounts r all new and painted accesory brackets r painted and the engine bay is degreased and clean. Pics soon.

pics soon is right or im banning you and your goddamn dog!!!

what do u guys recommend a pilot bushing or bearing? just finished porting the drivers head, just have to lap the valves and reassemble then do the otherside. i have to bring the crank to the machine shop and get his oppinion on the rean main bearing it has a scratch that can be felt with a finger nail idk if it should be there or not, kinda looks factory but thats where the seal sits so idk.

ps. rings r installed and gapped on the pistons and as soon as i hear about the crank bottom ends going together.

DONT JUST BEARING SWAP THE CRANK!!! Get it checked for straightness. depending on how you have had it sitting. either laying down flat on the floor or standing up on the crank hub Which is the way its Supposed to be. But even a week of having it sit flat will ruine a crank. SO with that sed Have It Checked for straight and bearing journals. and i always use a Bushing not a bearing on the LT1's. the longer input shaft tends to wobble Just a bit and wear out/blow out the Bearings.

Ok sounds good and the crank was standing up on the flex plate not laying down

yeah definitly worth having the machine shop check the crank out and stuff, no sense in trying to cut corners at this point in the game.

For real a crank can come out of round and balance from sitting on its side and not standing up? then hows does shipping work for cranks that are already mechined?

Not trying to instigate, now im courious

the problem seems to be you have an lt1 sitting under the hood....