Kevin and or Joe, your welcome to stop by today if your in the area just shoot me a text. Then again, I guess anyones welcome to stop by if you really wanna lol
603-459-9627 |
The rustoleum stuff is great. But if I may, give some time reading about POR-15. It is still available, and that sh*t is amazing! Yeah it's more involved than just the glop on thick rustoleum, but it's bulletproof (not literally but it is hammerproof literally). Used it on the engine bay of my Iroc, undercarriage, rearend, sfc's, and gas tank. You have to clean the part(s), basically remove all the oil and debris from it, and then hit it with a phosphorous type solution and then just paint man. No need for sandblasting. Give it a few mins to read about it man.
POR-15 http://www.por15.com/ |
Big mac I've never used the POR 15 but I always hear people having good results. I just think its so expensive for like a little more performance than a $10 pint of Rust oleum or 2. If you like bake it in near a wood stove it is like scratch proof.
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My dad looked into the por-15 ordered some stuff thats like the por-15 but different and cheaper. When I'm there on monday or tuesday ill tell you what its called and then how it works.
He bought a gallon of each of it, its two parts I think. |
Not going to lie, yeah it's a bit on the expensive side compared to the rustoleum bucket o' paint. But it's something that I am willing to stand by when it comes to durability. Haven't seen the stuff that's like it just yet. I bought a quart of the POR-15 and a quart of the prep ready. Used a general degreaser just to get all the oil and grease off of it and hit all the rusty parts with a wire wheel before just to get all the loose/flaky stuff off of it. Paid about $60 for it all back about 8 or so yrs ago shipped. Still had a bit of it left over and gave it to a friend who was building a few trucks and he used it on the frame off resto's and loved it as well.
It all comes down to what you wanna do and the budget/how much you wanna spend on it man. |
Hey, I didnt pay for it so, I can't really complain lol, he also is going to do the whole under side of the truck he just bought.
So, well see how it works and turns out! |
Summits stupid, they shipped EVERYTHING in one box and cracked one of the bottles of rust remover....Summit just lost my business forever, I can't believe how retarded they packaged it...I'm just glad there wasnt anything important in the box/ that could have gotten ruined. /rant
Ok so my dad is retarded lol The stuff is rust remover....fail, so I still gotta go pick up some rustoleum, but I guess well see how good at removing rust this stuff is. Also, picked up some bilstein shocks to replace the front decarbons.....guessing it will feel better after. Also picked up a balljoint press tool, thing works awesome. Wont even need a press now to get the bushings out either, to about 15 seconds to get the upper a-arm bushings out lol Still wish I has a spring vice for removing the springs, using the clamp things that go one either side of the spring to compress it, they work but take for ever cause I have to to back and forth on tightening them. |
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Still LOVE the balljoint press tho, just a C-clamp on steroids but man oh man does it work lol |
Everyone ignored me, soooo lets try again.
The moog ball joint came with grade 8 bolts, one set has a b on it and are black, the other have a p and are silver. Shouldnt matter right? |
Tjere should be paper work. One of the bolts might be shanked or shorter. The s10 shares the same upper balljoint but it a different control arm. They must have supplyd bolts for both applications.
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Pizza is right, had a few trucks to replace the ball joints in as well as a few other vehicles that used the same ball joint. Comes with two sets of bolts, just gotta read the instruction sheet that came with it to determine which you need to use. Sucks to hear that Summit dropped the ball man. Maybe the regular shipper was out sick that day.
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no no, single set of screws with each ball joint, i did not get two sets of screwes with each. ill take pics tomorrow of the head of the bolts. other then color and the markings they are identical.
And instructions paraphrased say, Install ball joint correctly lol |
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...-48-00_820.jpg
Also, this is what I was talking about. To late now its back together but still, Thats all that came with everything. Notice one set of bolts is silver and one black. |
As long as the bolt grade is the same no worries man. Too small to see on my phone. Just one set is coated whereas the other is an oxide finish. Just google bolt grades and head markings. That should give you sone more insight on the matter.
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Pics i forgot to put up when I was fixing it, I only have my phone so I didn't get many good pics. Fail.
Photobucket is being a bitch so, I had to add the photos here |
Well, turns out when I put my pacesetter LTs on a couple years ago I put the crappy gaskets that came with the LTs on instead of the feltpros I had bought.....whoops.
Gasket blew out when I started it up earlier :jest: So they are good for about 2 years or 20k miles LOL http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...-09-22_710.jpg Was hard to get a new good picture cause the engine was hot. |
i FUCKING hate those flanges and bolts!!! one thing they could have done better! good luck. what felpros did you get? i run the 1470 and have reused them and never had a leak. even had a bolt completely out on the #7 cylinder and still no leak.
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Thinking about making my car loud lol mines so quiet :( ~edit~ getting....14 somethings? i don't remember..... which ones are better or suck? |
i get frustrated Very easily wen i see how a manufacturer assembles or builds there part. and for little to NO added machine time could have improved install time 1000%
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Used an old socket, c-clamp and a hammer to "ding" my tubes inward a bit to make it more socket friendly. Hell, the manufacturer can easily do it if I can do it with such simple tools. Anyways, yeah the fel-pro gaskets are much better than those wicked whites that comes with 'em. You're very lucky you got 2 yrs out of em man. Mine never made it longer than it took to open the box lol.
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Yes well, from what everyone says, i have pretty good lt1 luck.170k stock opti lol
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Guess well see if they last. I know blah blah blah. Don't care, only ones they had in stock and I didnt wanna wait. LOL Didn't pay much as is. Stock headers no way, with the pacesetters there is much more to the header then stockers in surface area where it seals against the head. :zfreie: |
1404's work just fine too. 1407 are a bigger port size for ported heads. ANYTHING is better then those WACK white lightning pieces of shit!!!
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same shit just happened last week to me lost a bolt on # 8 and blew that shit gasket out.
If you haven't changed yours yet, I'll swing up this week and we can do them both hahaha |
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Let me know when your free, I've got alot to do this week but can make time to help you put them in. |
im putting both sides in
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iIm just lazy and between moving and everything else i just didnt have the time currently lol we can do both of yours tho, shouldnt take more then a few hours
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souldnt take more than one hour!!
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Lol, well, getting the old gasket off the manifold if it flakes isnt exactly cause of no space to work...
Wait, do you have stock manifolds or LTs? |
pacesetters
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I finally did mine today. If anyone is wondering Fel Pro 1406 is the right d-port gasket for the LT1 with pacesetter LTs. I found 1404s at advance auto and those are not d-port gaskets.
Also note to anyone dont EVER use the shit gaskets that come with pacesetters. They suck and some reason I thought they had metal bonded? NOPE just fuckin cardboard things disintegrated right when I pulled the header away LOL. |
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surprised it took 2 years for pieces to start falling out lol
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1406 is for the lt1 ports, 1407 is for ported lt1 heads(im pretty sure). the 1404 is sbc, but works with lt1.
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The 04s were $20 at advance in stock but 06s were 25 and had to wait a day. $5 and a day delay was worth it to me. I had to do both sides because of ocd |
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