its like re-bolting your mains with different fasteners......rods should always be at least checked for housing runout when you replace bolts......the higher clamping force can push the housing out of round compared to stock bolts...

^ Yeah Mikes Right. ALWAYS a good idea to have it checked. and on the SBC i dont know about the ls1 but it should be line honed upon change of fasteners espescially to studs. like i sed i dont know if the LS are the same??

Ya thats why i went ahead and did it because i dont want something to fail over a stupid 40 bucks haha. And i hear the ls is different but after countless threads on this topic i just went ahead and did it even though the machine shop said i really didnt need it at all.

We've changed rod bolt's in the car many times. Never a problem or failure. Just change 1 at a time,torque,move on.

There is a big difference in clamping force between head bolts and head studs. We run bolt's on NA cars and studs on FI cars. We run the factory gasket (seen no need for the more layer ls9's) and over torque them to 85 ft/lbs with the arp lube. It just works.

Ya i changed one at a time but just to be safe i second guessed myself and took them to a machine shop. Glad i did becasue i didnt think of taking the ferrels out OOPS so its a damn good thing i took them out!!! But now i'll have to do the bearings in the rods i'm sure....... And yes i have studs i just typed that in. 85lbs on the studs or your talking the reg head bolts?

looking awesome doug motor looks great big diffrence!!!

Pistons and rods (resized with new bearings) back in with the TU2 Cam, and SLP Double timing chain with SLP Oil Pump.....
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...1/IMAG0644.jpg

Looks good man apparently u gave up on just blowing up stockers?

Starting to make me feel bad about my single roller chain and stock oil pump. lol

I only thought of it since you put it in my car lol and got a hell of a deal on both.