Me At the 1320
These are a couple of passes from a few months ago. The first run was on a 100 shot. Then I changed out the jets and lined up with the 150's or the first time. 60' suffered on the 150 shot because the converter opened up real bad.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfeJUK5ugEg |
SICK!!!!
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Jeez that thing moves out! What is your setup? Love the WS6 Formula look too, sometimes that hood doesn't look right on a Formula but it looks perfect on this car.
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Sweet runs!
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Here's the setup and my best times N/A and on nitrous are in my sig: Front and rear bumper delete SLP cold air kit Modified airbox and hood Stock bellow, throttle body, and intake 36lbs injectors Stock ported heads (flow 392 CFM's) Lunati custom grind (226/234 554/574 112 LSA) Hooker LT headers and ORY. Borla XR1 bullet muffler (dumped off the Y-Pipe) NGK TR7 plugs TNT F1 nitrous kit HSW timing/fuel controller MSD window switch Fully built 4L60E transmission (Jr. Built) Yank PT4000 converter (switching to a 4400 PI soon) Moser 12-Bolt Moser 33 spline axles Moser 3.73 gears Hoosier QTP 28 "slicks" Prostars all the way around (bent a front runner though. :-( Spohn adjustable torque arm Spohn LCA's Wolfe 6-point roll bar Or the short list: Heads/cam and nitrous! haha My 4.30 gears just came in the other day and will be going in the car this week as well as a little more fine tuning and a little weight reduction. Shooting for 10's on motor with a stock bottom end 346, N/A. Wanted to do it full weight but 11.35 was the best I could muster. And yes, I drive it to and from work about 4 or 5 times a month. Still got A/C, radio, and full interior. |
Still a stock LS1 intake? That seems like a good candidate for upgrading.
Is that PT4000 manageable for street driving? From what I've read it's geared mainly towards track use. |
sick!...the pt4000 is what i planned on goin with unless i have him custom build me something..from what ive heard and what ive seen it def seems managable for street driving..called yank up told him what i have done to the car and that it was a daily driver and he said def go with the pt4000. The PT series are more efficient for the 1/4 unlike the SS series which are geared more to 1/8th mile. So basically with an LS1 which peak power is up in the high rpms the PT series is def the way to go. Which is why its prob seen as more as a track converter...After i put my gears in, out of curiousity i checked out some vids on youtube with people driving around with my set up with that converter and the driveability seemed fine and made me want it even more lol but i think it all depends what u want to do with the car.
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The car doesn't overheat or anything and my transmission temp runs just fine with my trans cooler+fan. The nights I drive her to the track, I'm running the A/C all 40 minutes of the drive. The only difference in my driving habbits with the Bird vs my Hummer is I take it slow through dips and bumps and turns since I usually roll with skinnies up front. |
I don't have any other pics of my interior but you can tell from this one when I was fitting the roll bar that it's full interior. If I get an 11.0X, I'll take out the seats to see if that'll net me a 10 second time slip on motor.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...051509_001.jpg |
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I'm not gonna B.S. you. The PT4000 is a loose converter and takes some throttle to get it rolling from light to light but you will definitely feel it when you launch that thing at the track. Personally, I prefer PI converters but the guy I traded trannies with had the PT4000 so I just bolted it in. Once it goes out, which it will soon since I'll now be locking it up at top end, I'm going with the Precision Industries Vigilante multi-disc. |
o i kno its a loose converter def and anything like that def takes time to get used to but im all for it haha
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damn!
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