LT1 question?
 

Whats the biggest OTS cam you can put in a LT1 without changing springs and crap? C304 or C306? Need something other than stock that will bring up the RPM's a bit so the converter isnt too mis-matched.

I figure I'll be doing, head gaskets, intake gaskets all that jaz while its out before going into the car. Any suggestions on what else to do?

Also I guess EFI is staying, so I assume I need the Complete engine harness and ECU. Will I need to screw with anything under the dash? Motor is coming out of a 9C1.

My last question is the ECU has a plug in Hypertech module, keep it?

you know you could spend a few $$ and put something else in there... lol

You know it drops right in and the motor is free right?

Is this going in your TA?

Also, if it's from a B body why does it have a chip? I thought that was only 93s, B body LT1s are 94-96.

you really shouldn't run any cam on the stock springs however the hot cam or the cc304 might be ok with it. also I would junk the hypercrapper or change setting to just play with gear change or shift firmness

Alex the hyper tech is a plug in module i dunno? Came with the car. Used to be a virgina state cop car.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hypertech/533/368122/10002/-1

If I hafta do springs I will since the heads will be off anyways. Just didnt want to out of laziness.

Now to find a way to tune out EGR, AIR and get the fuel tables right to run with the longtubes and crap.

Am I going to run into any issues with the ECU since the trans isnt being controlled and crap?

CC304 cam with 1.5 rr's is the only off shelf cam and LT1 spring will take. the springs coil bind at 540 lift. so the hot cam on 1.5 rockers MAY be be ok but its a much more aggressive profile and will float up top. and with the cc304 cam on a stock tune with a maf and the car should run clean on the whole curve with out much or any tuning. DO NOT reuse the timing chain. if the motor has low to moderate miles an HD chain alone will work fine other wise the stock stamped link type chain they use does a number on the cam gear. depending on what year? will determine what timing set you can use. i HOPE its a 1995+? so you can use the LT4 HD setup. Good Luck.

Motor is a 96, runs like a top for 208k miles. Gonna go through and do all the gaskes etc.

I'm hoping to be able to freshen it up and maybe do a cam for under 500 bux.

What lift do the stock intake and heads start to fall off at? Any particular RPM? Trying to to buy another converter which is why I'm looking at cams.

Dont put a cam on those springs. and if your gunna do springs/have the heads off have the clearances checked by a REPUTABLE Place!!! haha and besides if your planning on racing or driving this thing hard do the lower end!!! just have it al checked once over. youd hate to bolt it in and have it throw a rod bearing a week later?!?!

Yeah I hear ya, 406 is going on the shelf so I can rebuild it. My dad said he'll let me take the LT1 out so thats the plan. I dont plan to beat on it hard except maybe a couple track visits but I'm gonna be keeping the rpm to 6000ish. Just need something to last me a summer.

Whats stock head gasket thickness? What would you suggest for mods to do for cheap?

I could convert it to carb..

You shouldn't have any issues with the trans not being controlled.
At least my caprice didn't care when I swapped in the t56.
Only thing you may want to make sure of is getting some sort of speed sensor hooked up. That the ecu may miss, especially since it's a 96.
And either way just get tunercat for whatever adjustments you need to do. That should take care of whatever.

I was talking to MikeOD about tuning it for me. I dunno sucks not having the 406 but it needs a rebuild pretty bad.

Gonna hafta look into the VSS now... damn it.

Honestly I bet any third gen electric vss would work as long as the ecu is getting some sort of signal you can probably compensate for it in the tune. As long as on will thread into your th400. Would one for a 4l80 fit?
And yeah, mike definitely knows his stuff. He most likely already has a base tune on file that'll work with whatever set up you wind up with. That would definitely save you some headache there.

And please for the love of god don't carb it. Why waste a good injected motor? :)
If you're gonna do that just sell it, buy an old school small block, and be done with it

I wouldnt carb it dont worry. Mike knows his stuff so I'm definitely going to use his resources. I'll look into the VSS from a 4L80, I know I have one from a 96 4L60. Would that mean I have no more mech. speedo?

Should be interesting. http://www.jb-racing.com/got%20nos.gif

**edit**

Looks like I need a PCM from a 94-95 car if anyone has one.

Yeah you'd lose the mechanical sender. I bet if you search around though there's something you can thread onto the sending unti that you can also thread the mechanical cable into the other end to give a signal to the ecu and still keep a mechanical gauge. Pretty sure there is, just not sure where offhand.

And why would you need the older ecu? Mike can't work with the obd2 style? Thought he could.
Regardless if you do need the older on I may have a spare 9c1 ecu kicking around. Need to dig through my piles.

"get a 94-95 PCM, the part number ends in 8051. It plugs right into the same engine harness and will run the engine just fine. If you want the knock sensors to function, you need to spend 4 minutes with a soldering iron and a $1 resistor, or I'll do it for you, you just need to connect pins 21 and 22 in the blue connector on the 94-95 PCM to each other, then connect that to ground through a 2K ohm resistor...I THINK pin 1 is ground...but if it's not, there's a ground plane on the circuit board right next to the pins...96-97 LT1 is by far THE EASIEST to convert to OBD1...and the OBD1 LT1 PCM is better supported both with datalogging software and tuning software than the 96-97.

Since it's not in an OBD2 car if you swap it, you shouldn't even think twice...OBD2 cars have to have OBD2 PCM's...3rd gen's don't."

Thats exactly what he said.

Cant wait to go home and start pulling apart the caprice now! No rush on the ecu since I'm still in school down in PA. Should I bother with the knock sensor?

Well ok then :) just remind me from time to time before you come back up to go dig ;)

Just curious but is there a difference between the B-body, F body and corvette LT1 cams? I wonder if I can pick up a little by going to say a f body cam. Is it worth my time to port the TB inlet to a single opening? Gasket matching the intake manifold?

I think they are all different, the one to get if you can find it is the factory LT4 cam (not the hotcam), but I am not a huge fan of putting in a used cam unless it has very very low miles. And I'd say you are wasting your time porting the inlet out unless you get to a real radical engine, the LT1 T/B can handle a mostly stock engine. I don't think you would see any benefit at all, in fact it may hurt your power levels

I've got a decent cam picked out and it should bring it right up to 6200 rpm, so I'm deff leaning towards a 52/58mm TB. I think I actually have one somewhere. I was on thirdgen.org and theres some pretty quick LT1's on there with not much done. I wonder how fast I can get one of these with my trans,rear and suspension behind it

The cams are all different, the b body cam makes less hp but more tq, and I believe the y body cam makes more hp than the f body cam. And I would second what Nick said about the TB, there's no point in a bigger one unless you get a decent size cam.

Something along the lines of this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-07-468-8/

A 52 will be plenty, a 58 will be way overkill, even with that cam you can get by with a stocker. And You will def need to do springs with that cam. That cam is also waaaaay too big for stock cubes and stock heads, I don't see it working well at all.

Here's the 411 on LT1 cams. I was wrong about the Y Body cams being different from F Body cams, they're the same.

Factory LTX Camshaft Specifications:
1992 Y-body: 205/207 0.451/0.450 lift 117 LSA
1993-1995 Y-body, F-body: 202/207 0.450/0.460 lift 116 LSA
1994-1996 B-bodies (including L99 4.3L): 191/196 0.418/0.430 lift 111 LSA
1996 Y-body, 1996-1997 F-body: 200/207 0.447/0.459 lift 117 LSA
1996 Y-body, F-body LT4: 203/210 0.476/0.479 lift 115 LSA

Thanks Alex!

Batman, I know its a bit big. Might even go one step down but just trying to give a idea of what I'm looking for

Food for thought, I put down 319 to the wheels on slowhawks dyno with a hot cam, ported stock heads, and a stock, untouched throttle body.

I wouldn't go over a 225-230ish cam with stock LT1 heads, I don't think you will gain much above that.

you have to double check with comp if that cam will work with the stock LT1 oil pump drive gear, if the materials dont work with each other it will get chewed. ive been down that road and had to get a nice new set of lifters and lower end bearings from it. also doesnt help no one makes a oil pump gear for the stock shaft diameter.

i wouldnt even think about spinning a motor that high with out a refresh and j mean cam bearings too. just saying.

I hear ya, the motor is only temporary anyways so honestly I doubt I'll be doing a rebuild. Also negates the fact about just using something cheap for the time being.

I was told the b-body heads dont take the same springs though so I need to look into that.

Just do what I'm gonna do leave the motor 100% stock and boost 14psi

edit: with vtek hooked up

*like*

Whats your guys opinion on the C306 cam?

Dont forget I plan to use m current trans and converter and the converter is a 4200.

Without the added cubes of the 406 you are gonna have an odd running car with a 4200 stall. I'd say the 306 might work for you but I am admittedly not that sharp on what stock LTX parts can do

Yeah I figured it would kinda suck with the converter. Just dont have the $ to get a new converter as well. This shit sucks.

Don't get me wrong it'll go on a 4200 just might run a little odd. Are you planning on this as a track only car again?

Yeah, thats why I'm going to take my time building the 406 like I should have the 1st time.

Kind of funny, I just dug my orange 87 out of my parents yard and brought it home.
I'm contemplating doing pretty much the same thing with the 94 lt1 I picked up, only with a t56 and 3.42's.
Either that or a single turbo on the stock motor for now. I'm thinking that a cam and a set of used heads will probably get me the same 100 or so horse that 6 lbs of boost will and cost the same or less all said and done...

Cc306 will be a high revving cam alot of people like that cam with that stall it should do well

Thats what I figured. If a cammed LT1 could net me mid-low 11's and 10 on some juice I would be happy as shit! I know a guy running a LT1 in a turd and hes bottom 10's high 9's on juice with a stock longblock

Thats what i figured. I hope to have everything figured out before I head home in Dec.

You aren't gonna get mid 11's out of a cam only LT1 unless you get your race weight way down. I believe the "on juice" is a big denominator for your friend or his car is completely gutted. Plus nitrous + high mileage longblock + time bomb