stall/motor mounts install, drop k or no :x
fellas fellas, the klab tradition of doing something to the Z at the end of the spring semester has come. I picked up a "lightly used" Yank SS3600 stall converter over the winter and planning to install it in the upcoming week(s). I have a buddy who is down to help me drop the trans at his shop using his lift, while I'm in there I'm thinking its a good idea to put some poly motor mounts in and tranny mount (I know I should have done this when I was putting the LT's in...) I dont really want to take the headers out all over again. Do you think they can be done with the car in the air jacking the motor up with the headers still in or impossibru?
So I guess my other option is to just drop the whole dam k frame to do the stall and mounts and anything else that I wanna do (fix all the LT1 leaks) What do you think I should do? I've never dropped a motor in these cars so kind of iffy on that. I guess just unplug everything and separate the front calipers, disconnect the AC. Would that be easier because or just do it under the lift? :klab: |
it wont take long if you have a lift, you can unbolt the motor and jack it up and you will be able to get to the motor mount. i did that when i removed my long tubes to get recoated and it only took me a couple hrs to remove. the tranny i replaced one in my other 4th gen on a lift as well and that only took me 4hrs old out new in. it should be easy enough as long as you have access to a lift.
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You're welcome:) |
from the bottom. take the brake lines off the abs module. the hard line are on the k frame not the car. and if your Not swapping the motor wich is obvious. leave the motor as intact as possible. and unplug the engine harness from the car. don't unwire the engine.
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fuck it, if im dropping the motor and paying for a email tune, might as well throw a cam in there while im at it
YOLO :klab: |
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[QUOTE=KLAB;80221]did you do the mounts with the headers still in though? I'm not worried about the trans mount since thats coming out anyways. I've put like 5 in since I had it too lol.
It was easy to reach the motor mounts on the lift ,and when I removed the bolt to lift the engine up on the lift I was able to remove my headers really easy. I removed my headers to get sand blasted and recoated. |
finally going to listen to me huh lol
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yeah so lets go it on your lift LOL
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Since my headers will be out, is there any good hi temp paint that works OK on headers? Mine look like shit (non-coated pacesetters).
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better off having them powder coated. The paint will just cook off. Ask me how I know
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no paint will last. unless its a show car, jet hot or forget it.
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Yeah screw that I'll leave them rusty lol
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Mine were jet hotted and still look like shit!
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Fellas, here are 3 trans coolers I have in stock. Any suggestions on which one you would use? The one with copper tubes looks like the best flowing one to me. The other two are identical and more compact, also already have mounting tabs. They're a little banged up but no damage that would leak.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5q-...it?usp=sharing :klab: |
ive always thought the tube type flowed better. obviously. but the faster it goes threw the cooler the least amount of heat transfer it has. so its kind of a toss up i think. but the radiator style are what is more widely used.
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Get the biggest cooler that will fit in your car.
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If I remember right from when I looked into them the "plate" design actually works better but it's been I while since I researched it.
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I have a plate style in mine. Seems to work just fine.
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Why a 3600 stall on a bolt on lt1? Wouldn't you wanna use a lower stall?
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I would have said the same thing but Tony get great results with his 3600, and from driving his car the street manners are amazing. In normal driving if no one told you it was a 3600 you would never know.
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Klab, ill buy it from you cause you know youll never put the stall in. lol
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true story Alex. drove a 3000 stalled/cammed LT1 recently and it felt like Shit compared to tonys car. tony still sucks But he did his research and his car flys!!
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