UD Pulley?

[ILuvPizzaTimes10]

Yes. my car drops 100 degrees in a minute with the key on and engine off.

Ohh and its a very good mod the UD Pulley. unless you like burning up alternators and power steering pumps at 6000+rpm shift. and its required to have an SFI Damper if the motor spins past 6500 rpm also. they Dont check for it or ask in tech at NED but i have gotten asked at Atco.

[ZFreie]

Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10

Yes. my car drops 100 degrees in a minute with the key on and engine off.

Rodger, just making sure my thoughts were correct.

[smokinss]

I did the summit under drive on my car when I changed the cam 2nd time around. Nice piece and is sfi rated too. I guess it helped out a little bit.

[Batman]

Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10

Yes. my car drops 100 degrees in a minute with the key on and engine off.

Ohh and its a very good mod the UD Pulley. unless you like burning up alternators and power steering pumps at 6000+rpm shift. and its required to have an SFI Damper if the motor spins past 6500 rpm also. they Dont check for it or ask in tech at NED but i have gotten asked at Atco.

What mods do you have Midnight? And I don't see him going past 6500 in any meaningful way if he has stock internals. I'm just saying from experience ( I had an SLP pulley for a little while) for the ridiculous money you are going to pay for one you get next to nothing. You would see more on a SBC or an LT1. I shifted at 6750 and never had a problem with an alternator or PS pump or slipping belts.

Back on topic, Midnight, I'd be looking into suspension mods if they haven;t been done since most underdrive pulleys are at least halfway to the price of a torque arm (SFI rated one probably cost more than a torque arm). That is if you actually want to go faster and not just make 2 more RWH on the dyno.

[midnight]

Originally Posted by Batman

What mods do you have Midnight? And I don't see him going past 6500 in any meaningful way if he has stock internals. I'm just saying from experience ( I had an SLP pulley for a little while) for the ridiculous money you are going to pay for one you get next to nothing. You would see more on a SBC or an LT1. I shifted at 6750 and never had a problem with an alternator or PS pump or slipping belts.

Back on topic, Midnight, I'd be looking into suspension mods if they haven;t been done since most underdrive pulleys are at least halfway to the price of a torque arm (SFI rated one probably cost more than a torque arm). That is if you actually want to go faster and not just make 2 more RWH on the dyno.

lol faster works, thats the ultimate goal. so do they benefit even though im not having traction issues? I was surprised at how well the tires hold up on the street (cant get the thing sideways unless i dump it then cut the wheel lol) and at the track im DEFINITELY not having traction issues. Im assuming that they limit any sort of engine/transmission movement and throw the power to the wheels quicker?

[ILuvPizzaTimes10]

cars are running mid low 10's on stock suspension. you are Not traction limited. you need to learn how to drive. Now an under drive pulley and Electric water pump do help. Mr. I Know It all thinks not for whatever reason. it helps the engine alot more up top then anything. is it going to drop 2 mph? No. efficiency is the goal with those two mods. Now get your driving down and you wont be looking at adding more power cuz the car will be fast. if your looking to go faster by adding more parts thats just dumb and you will be in a worse boat with a CAR THAT NOW wONT HOOK AND YOU STILL CANT SHIFT,

[midnight]

Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10

cars are running mid low 10's on stock suspension. you are Not traction limited. you need to learn how to drive. Now an under drive pulley and Electric water pump do help. Mr. I Know It all thinks not for whatever reason. it helps the engine alot more up top then anything. is it going to drop 2 mph? No. efficiency is the goal with those two mods. Now get your driving down and you wont be looking at adding more power cuz the car will be fast. if your looking to go faster by adding more parts thats just dumb and you will be in a worse boat with a CAR THAT NOW wONT HOOK AND YOU STILL CANT SHIFT,

im not talking about modifications from a "going faster down the track" stand point. SOTP feel and moving around on the street is mainly what the car does, the track is a secondary concern. I know the problems i have at the track are related to me and not needing modification, but i shouldnt have to tell you that they are two different worlds

[Batman]

Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10

cars are running mid low 10's on stock suspension. you are Not traction limited.

You can go 10's on a stock rear axle too, doesn't make it smart. Do what you want Mike, Pizza has obviously had more LS1's with underdrive pulleys (once again) than I have. I'm tired of arguing with him and won't stoop to his level anymore. When you break the mount or the tailshaft on your transmission at least you will have 2 extra HP at 7000 RPM and a better SOTP feeling.

[thesilverone]

putting the car on a diet would always help

[midnight]

Originally Posted by Batman

You can go 10's on a stock rear axle too, doesn't make it smart. Do what you want Mike, Pizza has obviously had more LS1's with underdrive pulleys (once again) than I have. I'm tired of arguing with him and won't stoop to his level anymore. When you break the mount or the tailshaft on your transmission at least you will have 2 extra HP at 7000 RPM and a better SOTP feeling.

i like how i get thrown into this....i ask question about your suggestion and that immediately means im not listening or putting down someones opinion. Guess i should just make my own decisions and learn from my mistakes cuz me asking opinions obviously upsets others?