For all the lt1 haters... - Page 4 - North East F-Body Association

irockidz28 · #31 10-08-2011, 04:36 AM

could possibly be a sticking valve???? i know its temp related but..anything is possible right...

bottledbird68 · #32 10-08-2011, 04:44 AM

From what I read o2 sensors or maf force it into open loop. Runs exactly the same with or without the maf.

And John, it has the exact same issue with the old plugs/wires/cap as it does with the new ones we just installed so I doubt it's a wire issue

ILuvPizzaTimes10 · #33 10-08-2011, 01:33 PM

Ignition Control Module. it will get to a point were it wont stay running, it will run Great warm up then die, it then wont start till the ICM cools off. i think i have a couple spares there rather expensive. so dont buy one if you dont want and wen i go home today ill dig mine out?

ZFreie · #34 10-08-2011, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10

Ignition Control Module. it will get to a point were it wont stay running, it will run Great warm up then die, it then wont start till the ICM cools off. i think i have a couple spares there rather expensive. so dont buy one if you dont want and wen i go home today ill dig mine out?

How about the icm spacer mod? Also, I would try going to a computer store and getting artic silver or some other kind of thermal paste and re attach the heat sink to the icm. IF the thermal paste is old and dry it wont do its job of transferring heat to the heat sink.

KLAB · #35 10-08-2011, 02:20 PM

dont space it is better touching the head

KLAB · #36 10-08-2011, 02:23 PM

it cools off faster being in contact with the head, plus touching the head allows it to only get as hot as the aluminum, being in open air with nothink to attempt thermal equilibrium with other than the air allows it to heat up hotter and take longer to cool off.

[/behaviorofmaterials]

ZFreie · #37 10-08-2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KLAB

dont space it is better touching the head

Yea? Mines still attached to the head, never had an issue with the icm, when i replaced the coil, i put new thermal past on and no issues.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KLAB

it cools off faster being in contact with the head, plus touching the head allows it to only get as hot as the aluminum, being in open air with nothink to attempt thermal equilibrium with other than the air allows it to heat up hotter and take longer to cool off.

[/behaviorofmaterials]

It has its own heatsink....in theory while moving on or off the head should make little difference. sitting still or when you shut the car off is a different story.

ILuvPizzaTimes10 · #38 10-08-2011, 02:31 PM

if the icm is heating up and then causing an issue. the fix isnt to take it off the head. the fix is to replace it. further more moving it off the head makes little difference. relocating it entirely to another location will. either way its STILL Bolted to the head. and heat transfer will occur regardless. So try that Matt. the lower rpm chug after its warm only makes sence that its the ICM if it was the optical sensor itself, it would break up at high rpm as well. Thats what ive found anyway. i have been wrong in the past. just trying to help.

ZFreie · #39 10-08-2011, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10

Thats what ive found anyway. i have been wrong in the past. just trying to help.

What he said lol

bottledbird68 · #40 10-08-2011, 10:15 PM

Not the icm unless both of the ones I have here are causing the exact same issue. Already tried that too

Thank you though. Any other ideas?