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  #71  
Old 09-28-2011, 01:56 PM
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ILuvPizzaTimes10 ILuvPizzaTimes10 is offline
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all good stuff!!!! Good Luck with it. that motor looks AWESOME!!!
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  #72  
Old 10-02-2011, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10 View Post
you are doin the proper head work to run unleaded right? 11.5 on a cast head you are asking for a hole in a piston. 100 octane Might solve it lead additive is an option or get aluminum heads? and pain them to "look" correct but save all the original pieces?
This man speaks truths. Cracked the #6 piston on my step dads domed 1970 LT1 that way. Lower compression iron heads killed power but runs great now.
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  #73  
Old 10-02-2011, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidS View Post
I read in a whole bunch of postings that:
...b) when you are primering bare metal, you should not use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint
...
I contacted Eastwood Tech Help and found that Rust Encapsulator is supposed to be fine over bare metal as a primer. They told me to ensure that the surface was scuffed with 180-220 grit paper and properly cleaned. I used it as a bare metal primer on the firewall and radiator support of my Land Rover. I sandblasted the parts, then gave then a quick once-over with 220 grit before cleaning and spraying on the Encapsulator. After dry, it was top coated with either military CARC-substitute enamel paint or Rust-Oleum semi-gloss black enamel. So far, so good.
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  #74  
Old 10-02-2011, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLAB View Post
This man speaks truths. Cracked the #6 piston on my step dads domed 1970 LT1 that way. Lower compression iron heads killed power but runs great now.
I'll probably be going with 100 octane and a lead additive.
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  #75  
Old 10-02-2011, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff68 View Post
I contacted Eastwood Tech Help and found that Rust Encapsulator is supposed to be fine over bare metal as a primer. They told me to ensure that the surface was scuffed with 180-220 grit paper and properly cleaned. I used it as a bare metal primer on the firewall and radiator support of my Land Rover. I sandblasted the parts, then gave then a quick once-over with 220 grit before cleaning and spraying on the Encapsulator. After dry, it was top coated with either military CARC-substitute enamel paint or Rust-Oleum semi-gloss black enamel. So far, so good.
Thanks Jeff. This is good to know. I have 4 or 5 cans here.
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  #76  
Old 10-03-2011, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidS View Post
I'll probably be going with 100 octane and a lead additive.
hollands garage will help ya out .
they sell 50 gal barrels of the fuel (leaded or unleaded)
better off with the leaded gas, those lead additives are not so great.
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  #77  
Old 10-03-2011, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by DAWG View Post
hollands garage will help ya out .
they sell 50 gal barrels of the fuel (leaded or unleaded)
better off with the leaded gas, those lead additives are not so great.
Sounds good. Thanks Dawg!!!
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  #78  
Old 10-03-2011, 04:21 PM
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If your interested David, my friend is selling a new drum of C16. I'm not sure on price but I can find out if you want me to.
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  #79  
Old 10-04-2011, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls6monte View Post
If your interested David, my friend is selling a new drum of C16. I'm not sure on price but I can find out if you want me to.
Thanks for the offer Ron!!! At this point though, I am not sure. I will talk to Norm at Precision and see what he thinks.
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  #80  
Old 10-17-2011, 08:18 PM
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Engine is done, but Norm is out this week. Should be on the dyno next week.



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