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#1
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So... Perhaps this is a complete newb question but...
There is a sneakin suspicion around my homestead and mechanic that my car may have cam in it... The reason we think this might be the case is because the car has had a fair amount of work to it, and when I had the opti replaced the water pump looked brand new as opposed to the opti, therefor saying that someone has already been down I that area of the motor. I have upgraded fuel system and injectors done and I'm getting a slight rumble at idle. Other than these things I would have no real idea. Is here anyway I can confirm our disregard our suspicions? |
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#2
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take it all off and look at the face of the cam lol
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![]() 06 CTSV 08 Spec B Sold 00 Yukon SLT Sold 05 STI Sold 02 WS6 Sold 12/1/12 94 1LE Sold 3/18/11 02 WRX Sold 2/18/12 Drag racing a car thats been totaled is like fucking a hooker with no rubber. Either way your a stupid fuck. |
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#3
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well if its running thats a good indication, it wont run without a camshaft. lol hahah
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![]() 1999 Z28 T-Top M6 - LS6, Bolt Ons, Suspension, MWC Narrowed 9" - 415rwhp 385rwtq 10.847 @ 125.17 1989 IROC-Z H/T M5 2006 F350 SCSB 4x4 6.0L Diesel - Studs, EGR Delete, Powermax Turbo, Extreme Tuning & Exhaust - 13.23 @ 101 |
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#4
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One way you can sort of check is by using a dial indicator and seeing how much lift is on the cam now. That and you can use a Cam Degree wheel to see what the opening and closings are etc.
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5.3L LSx, Fbody .500 cam, TH400, 4500 Stall, Moser 9" |
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#5
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If its a larger cam, then it would be easy to tell by most of the people on here just by listening to the car, maybe post a high quality exhaust vid? thats where I would start, but youd really have to listen to it in person, that would be best. Other than that, youd probably have to take everything off and do as mike said, look at the numbers on the face of the cam and post them up here in order to be 100% sure.
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD ![]() 2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now.... DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer.
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#6
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Quote:
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2000 Firebird- Pacesetter headers & y-pipe | cacto 3" CAT | slp factory dual exhaust | whisper lid w/ K&N filter | aluminum DS | 3.42 w/LSD | 1LE sway bars 32/19mm | htchks STB | UMI LCA Relo's | UMI SFCs | 3" E-cut out | 1/4: 15.3 @ 88.87-SOLD 2000 Camaro Z28- SLP lid/smooth bellows | SLP dual/dual | UMI SFCs/STB | 2.73s | 13.2@106 http://www.offthelineracing.com/ |
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#7
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let me drive it and ill tell ya haha
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#8
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Haha. Well switch for a day that sound.
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#9
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Beat me to it
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#10
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cant go by sound. the sound could be a multitude of different things wrong with the car. The Map sensor for one can cause a stumble at idle as well as the maf. stuck egr valve or leaking block off plates? are a few i can think of. best way to tell without pulling it all apart is have it checked at a dyno. Preferably Dons shop to make sure its not too lean or rich and see what power it puts down. if it makes over 250rwhp its cammed!!! hahaha
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![]() 1998 Firebird:buncha parts thats used to make it go fast..... not so much anymore. ![]() BAAAAAA!!!!!! |
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