North East F-Body Association - Deciding on a first stall

North East F-Body Association (http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/index.php)

- Drivetrain (http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23)

- - Deciding on a first stall (http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/showthread.php?t=2301)

I agree, if you want to go big find someone who has one and see how you like it

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batman (Post 38151)

Lol you did NOT just seriously say that....LMAO. That's like saying "see hon, gettin it in the ass doesn't hurt, the girl in the movie loves it"

obv its not the same as driving it but u do get an idea rpm wise watching that vid and it def isnt "flat" driving around.

Ive driven ss3600 stalled cars and they def go good but personally i want more.

Like people said it all depends on what you want out of the car.

KEVIN LAST OF A BREED!!!! OFFER UP A TESTY DRIVE IN YOUR CARO!!!! DOUCHE!!!

I know my motor isnt a LSx motor and I have a lot more cubes but.. I also have a 4500 converter. I can tell you that drivability does change a bit from the little I have been able to drive mine. You can tell down low(below like 2500) the car has no sack(like batman said). You really need to get that converter speed up to get the TQ multiplication.

Honestly though the car didnt drive too bad, taking off from a stop wasnt that bad but for something daily driven or driven heavily in the summer, I would probably go with something like the SS3600.

Just my .02

Quote:

Originally Posted by *LS1* Queen (Post 38122)

Im goin with the PT4000 and i daily drive my car. If you watch vids on youtube the driveability is fine. And with my set up and peak power thats the right stall for me as far as yank says.

What is your setup?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batman (Post 38105)

Well until the stall locks it is similar to a slipping clutch. Flat may not be the word for it but the car will not drive the same way it does now. Higher the stall speed further into the RPM range it will act like that. Using a 4000+ stall on a stock cam that starts making power at a much lower RPM never made sense to me on a street car. If it was a car that was more track oriented then hell yeah crank up the stall speed to knock down the ET. Have decide which is more important to you, the extra .2-.4 at the track or manners on the street. It will all boil down to personal taste and what you as the driver can tolerate. I for one would not go more then 3600 unless you have plans for at least a cam upgrade. I think 3200 is the sweet spot for a stock engine, nice bump in performance without slogging along at low RPM

stall speed is half the equation, torque multiplication is the other half. you can take two converters both a 3600 stall, one with a 3.0 STR and the other with a 2.0 STR.

the drivability is going to be much better with the 3.0 due to the higher torque multiplication however its going to be less efficient at getting the power to the ground at higher rpms compared to the 2.0

and fwiw there isnt a converter yank advertises thats going to stall above 4000rpm behind a stock head/cam ls.

the PT converters advertised as head/cam converters, they will stall 400rpm lower behind a stock head/cam motor.
PT4000 = 3600
PT4400 = 4000

the PTs have a lower STR but are more efficient on the top end.

its important to match your gears/tiresize and converter together. i think alot of the reason people bitch about big converters is because they put 3600+ converters in cars with 2.73s, 3.23s and 3.42s, more load = more work.
if your going to run those gears go with an SS converter, youll need the extra torque multiplication your loosing with the stock gears.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batman (Post 38086)

I agree with 3600, but on stocks heads and cam if you go higher than that and aren't doing it just for the ET gain at the track you are just pissing away fuel mileage for nothing gained on the street. I liked my 3600 at the track but IMO it made the car run flat 90% of the time on the street, especially on a nice windy hilly road.

it depends, there is more to it than just stall speed. fwiw the fastest bolt on only LS1s are running PT4400 and theyre well into the 11s.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batman (Post 38151)

Lol you did NOT just seriously say that....LMAO. That's like saying "see hon, gettin it in the ass doesn't hurt, the girl in the movie loves it"

if you know what your looking at you can get a pretty good idea of what to expect just from watching. rpm extension, flash, etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z (Post 38189)

Thats good info right there. At first I was pretty much set on a ss3600 but I really wanted a converter that would pull like a sob up top as well. Thats why I was thingking PT4000. But the decision is tough cause its mostly a street car. I wanna be able to mess around with other cars stop light to stop light. From all the research Iv done iv learned you cant have the best of both worlds in a converter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z (Post 38191)

it depends, there is more to it than just stall speed. fwiw the fastest bolt on only LS1s are running PT4400 and theyre well into the 11s.

Never said the fastest ones weren't high stalls, makes perfect sense. but I be willing to bet they don't see a whole lot of street time. And yes you do have to match the whole drivetrain but I believe he said he had 3.42's and I am assuming stock 16 or 17 inch wheels. Like I said on a stock car the ss 3200-3600 is, IMO the best compromise, taking into account tire size, gearing, cam selection etc. But really the best bet is to find some to drive and see how you like it. And I stand firm on the you tube video opinion. You can throw out facts and RPM bands all day long but until you feel it you can't possibly get a true opinion. You can't feel the throttle response or the cars reaction through a video you can only guess.

So anyway long story short find some to drive and see what you like. You can plan it out on paper all day and have it be nothing like you expected