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#1
11-23-2011, 01:34 AM
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Bolt on vs weld on SFC's
Ive been looking at some subframe connectors, but are there any advantages over having weld on instead of bolt on? also what are some of you guys running on your cars, and how do you like it? Thanks
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD  2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now....  DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer. 
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#3
11-23-2011, 02:47 AM
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I have bolt ons so far never had a problem. I also got the 3 point idk if that makes any difference. I also had bolt ons for my 2nd gen and never had any problems either. I know if you just put sfc on wether its either 1 its night and day.
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#4
11-23-2011, 03:16 AM
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Ive heard that you cant really tell the difference between the bolt ons and weld ons. Idk how to weld, so I might have to go the bolt on route haha
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD 2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now.... DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer.
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#5
11-23-2011, 03:42 AM
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weld on for sure. like john sed eventually they will loosen and move. weld ins will ALWAY hold the car square after proper installation!!
Call up Don. He doesn't charge That much if you buy them threw him!!!
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 1998 Firebird:buncha parts thats used to make it go fast..... not so much anymore.  BAAAAAA!!!!!!
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#6
11-23-2011, 03:56 AM
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I would only consider weld in, that's what I'll get for my car eventually. And have someone who knows what they are doing install them. The car has to be square when they are welded in. Don explained to me how he does it and he is very methodical about it.
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#7
11-23-2011, 12:06 PM
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Alright, thanks guys, looks like I'll be giving Don a call next season haha
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD 2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now.... DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer.
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#8
11-23-2011, 03:52 PM
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Yeah bolt on seems weak considering what they do. That square weld > the bolt
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 95 Z28 hard top - LT1 | 4L60e | bolt ons | Yank SS3600 | suspension | viking coil overs | 3.42 10 bolt | 3520 lbs - 12.331 @ 108.22mph 1.668 60' 08 Saab 9-7x - L96 6.0 swap | L92 heads/intake/TB | LS6 cam | LS9 springs | 7.425" hardened pushrods | CAI | 1-3/4" stepped LT's | catback | 4L60E | FTI 3000 278mm converter
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#9
11-23-2011, 04:51 PM
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the only positive i see from the bolt on ones is the fact they can be removed or replaced. IMO if you have a nice car i think the best thing to do is buy bolt on ones and stitch them in a few places that you can easily cut/grind when you want to take them out. boomer has the 3pt bolt in UMIs and they have served him well.
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 1999 Z28 T-Top M6 - LS6, Bolt Ons, Suspension, MWC Narrowed 9" - 415rwhp 385rwtq 10.847 @ 125.17 1989 IROC-Z H/T M5 2006 F350 SCSB 4x4 6.0L Diesel - Studs, EGR Delete, Powermax Turbo, Extreme Tuning & Exhaust - 13.23 @ 101
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#10
11-25-2011, 07:26 AM
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I'd go weld ins myself as well. I'll be going that route on the fourth gen if it sticks around and did go that route on the third gen.
Just make sure that when they are welded in the car is square and supported by the suspension so the chassis is loaded like it's sitting on the ground. I've seen people weld them in with the car up on a two post lift. I shake my head every time. I've installed a number of them in various cars over the years, always supported the cars out at the edges on big stands just like they were sitting on the ground with tires on. Never had any issues that way. Best way is on a drive on lift or a frame machine but I've only had that luxury once lol.
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